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  (#1)
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Join Date: October 1, 2002
Location: Boston, MA area
November 4, 2004, 09:03 PM

VFR chain has some tight spots, so needs to be replaced. Looking for some advice on what to buy (i.e. what brand and type?). I believe that I bought an RK Gold for my SV, but mostly because that is what the trackside vendor had in stock. I haven't taken a close look at my sprockets yet, but after a quick glance at my rear sprocket, I don't think it needs to be replaced.

Is 18K miles normal for chain life? I'm probably guilty of not adjusting chain tension frequently enough, but was fairly good at keeping it clean and lubed.

Is it a better to avoid the removable masterlinks?

I'll check out the links that Brooks posted in that other thread for places to buy. Also need to find the links to the chain break and chain press tools that I saw a little while ago.

Thanks
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November 4, 2004, 09:19 PM

Dave,

D.I.D., RK, and Tsubaki are all fine chain manufacturers. Stick with stock weight (I think it's a 525 on the vfr, but maybe a 530). Most importantly, get new sprockets! Get a new countershaft and rear. Avoid the removable master links, and get a shop to do it, unless you've done it before.

18,000 is good chain life. If it were a trackbike, I'd say, get lightweight sprockets and chain. But on a vfr, there's no reason to. Good luck, and shop around, but change your sprockets when you replace the chain. It's an old rule, but a good one. Vortex and AFAM make good sprockets, but no need to be picky. The gearing is more important.


Johnny V.
CCS & ASRA #67

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November 4, 2004, 09:28 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPVaccaro
Dave,

D.I.D., RK, and Tsubaki are all fine chain manufacturers. Stick with stock weight (I think it's a 525 on the vfr, but maybe a 530). Most importantly, get new sprockets! Get a new countershaft and rear. Avoid the removable master links, and get a shop to do it, unless you've done it before.

18,000 is good chain life. If it were a trackbike, I'd say, get lightweight sprockets and chain. But on a vfr, there's no reason to. Good luck, and shop around, but change your sprockets when you replace the chain. It's an old rule, but a good one. Vortex and AFAM make good sprockets, but no need to be picky. The gearing is more important.
Thanks JP! I did the 520 conversion on my SV, so I'm not worried about doing it myself! Especially since I did it on the SV without the help of proper tools! Ever press on a master link without a chain press? It's like juggling Jello! Stock is 530 and I plan on staying with that. And thanks for the advice on the sprockets, I will do that, too! Hmmm, if I go up 2 on the rear, maybe I can finally get those second gear wheelies down!!
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November 4, 2004, 09:32 PM

Colemans in Woodbridge has chain breakers and presses in stock. Thats where I got mine.


-Steve

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November 5, 2004, 02:40 PM

I second JP's response.

My OEM Hayabusa chain stretched to the replacement limit at 15,000 miles. One of the o-rings also had failed. I replaced it with a Tsubaki Sigma Gold 530 chain which uses a clip (SteveZX9 and other have said I should switch to a rivet link). At the same time, I replaced both sprockets with stock sizes. A new chain will wear prematurely with old sprockets, and we don't like premature anything!

It might just be me, but the Tsubaki chain feels heavier than the OEM chain. Were I a racer, I'd be concerned as it would reduce my acceleration due to more unsprung weight. With a few thousand miles on it, it appears to be wearing and stretching the same as OEM.

I bought the parts at the shop instead of online, so I paid a little more than I needed to. Mom and Pop shops are getting clobbered by online sales and massive chain stores. I'd rather see the benefits of my money by helping the local shop succeed.

Support small business and skip Walmart, Target, et al.

# end digression


-- Chris
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