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  (#1)
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Posts: 2,197
Join Date: September 27, 2002
Location: Leesburg, VA
September 23, 2003, 11:11 AM

This is a cool post I found abotu Painting Tips:

"This is from my own personal experiance. I am not a professional, so ths technique i used may or may not be what a professional painter does, so please all you experts keep that in mind.

I have done 2 sets of bodywork. The first came out horrible and the second was almost to beautiful to take to the track! i learned a lot bewtween my first time and my second time.

First and foremost.....THe way for me to a good paint job is GOOD PREP WORK!!!! I can't stress that enough. get all that grease and grime off. I used 3m adhesive, grease and wax remover. even if it looks like theres nothing on it (like new direct from the manufactuere) still clean it good.

I next went over the set with a green scotchbrite pad to slightly scuff it up. I than used Plasti-Kote sandablegray primer (ALL paint used was Plasti-Kote Truck and SUV paint I got from PEP Boys for $4.99 a can). Even if it is pre-primed, prime it again cause some paints are only compatable with same company primer.

I than hung the bodywork by a bent wire hanger from hooks in the celing of my garage. don't paint it on the floor of the garage it gets everywhere and you end up not getting paint in a ll the crevises.

Next i sparayed 3-4 coats of whatever color you wish. don't get too close or you'll get heavy runs which look like shit. You don't ave to cover the bodywork 100% on the first coat. Keep the can about 8 or so inches away and keep a nice steady side to side stroke. Oh, i used Laquer paint, it seems to dry alot faster and is more forgivable if you make a mistake (sandable) I waited about 10 minutes between coats.

after the last coat, I sanded with 2000 grit wet sandpaper. this took off all the "dust" that the overspey left everywhere. the can says 400 grit but that, in my opinion, takes way to much paint off and actually leaves fine scrathes in the fresh paint. the 2000 grit leaves a silky smooth finish! I than used the hose and washed all the reisdue off and dried it real good.

next i put 2-3 coats of clear coat on in the same manner i did the color. only differance is that i didn't sand when i was done.

If you choose to sand the clear coat. wait a week or so to make sure it is FULLY cured and dried. as i found out if you sand the clearcoar too early it turns a dull opaque color and looks like crap. It took almost 2 hours to buff and polich it back to a nice smooth shiney color. (used novus plastic 3 step polish to do and than maquires cleaner/wax).

I actually did not clear coat my all Black tail section yet cause it was too perfect and smooth with just the black spray paint (no dust or anything) so I'm gpoing to wait to see how it holds up without it.

1 mistake i made on my first attempt was mixing laquer and enamal.DO NOT mix laquer and enamal paint. it cuases and reaction that makes the paint scale and peel. enamal is very hard to sand so if you make a mistake with enamal, your sorta stuck with it.
the other was i assumed the sharkskinz section was clean and the primer they used was good. wrong!!!!!!!

the whole process takes a while. the tailsection took me like 6 hours to do.

if anyone sees any mistakes with this process, post it up. But the above worked VERY WELL for ME!!! all in all i spent about $60 in supplies (paint, sandpaper, primer) used about 5 cans of paint and 3 cans of clear coat."



[Edited on 9/23/2003 by rixride]


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  (#2)
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Join Date: October 6, 2002
Location: Reston
September 26, 2003, 12:40 AM

Cool write up Rick! I like that laymans point of view/experience type stuff


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October 3, 2003, 12:44 PM

most helpful, for my wrecked bike


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Join Date: December 17, 2002
Location: Ashburn, VA
October 3, 2003, 01:02 PM

Excellent timing, Rick, being that i just bought myself some race fairings this morning and they're gonna need to be painted before the Spring!


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