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My steering stop fix.
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Too Fat To Be Fast
 
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My steering stop fix. - February 8, 2006, 10:26 AM

This may help some others that have this issue although not all bikes use the same steering stop engineering. But if you have a tab on the steering head that’s been shared off due to a slapper or a track hoe (such as this one) that has seen better days keep this in mind.

As you can see from this pic the tab that was the steering stop is long gone…



After some time with a Dremel I cleaned the surface down to a flat area. The bolt I used was a M8x1.25 from my stock rearsets (wasn’t being used). I used a 17/64” drill bit to drill into the steering head (~3/4”). Then taped the hole with a 8x1.25 bit. Be sure not to over tighten the bolt or use Loctite. Should you enter a situation of another slapper that does enough damage to snap the bolt head you want to be able to get it out and replace… Granted, the bike might not be rebuilding after that but hey, I’m rebuilding this thing.



Cheers,
Bern
13 Ducati 1199
06 Ducati PS1000LE
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February 8, 2006, 11:18 AM

Interesting idea... I guess if you crash again then it shearing off and twisting the front end would be the least of your problems...

If all you're trying to do is get it back out to the track then this should work great.


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February 8, 2006, 11:22 AM

I actually need to make one for my GSXR front end, great idea.


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February 8, 2006, 11:29 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper
If all you're trying to do is get it back out to the track then this should work great.
Yep, this is for a TLR I'm building as my track biatch...


Cheers,
Bern
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February 9, 2006, 08:08 AM

Looks like a clean install but I don't know if I would have drilled and tapped the frame neck like that. I would have just welded a new stop in place.
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February 9, 2006, 09:06 AM

Loctight?
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February 9, 2006, 09:27 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nunyadambusiness
Loctight?
No, Loctite.

Used to keep bolts from backing out. Red = Strong, Blue = Medium & Green is soft. Blue is the most common used but you'll find that Suzuki really likes the red stuff... the bastards. I want to change my rearset lever to a short one but the three small bolts with blue Loctite have already twisted one Allen key.

If Loctite is used and bolt head snaps it would be a royal pain to remove it.

BlackHatch, the idea of welding came to mind but the bearings would have to removed/replaced because of the heat generated in the process of welding the aluminum. The hole is not in a load sensitive area nor does it go through to the steering stem. Yes, it would have been questionable if I was drilling next to the welded frame rail. The welded area would then need to be cleaned and the material removed during that process would in effect weaken the stop.


Cheers,
Bern
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February 9, 2006, 03:32 PM

what about all the aluminum bits that are now in your lower steering head bearings? But cool Idea dude we could market that just put a zerc fitting in the threaded hole pump it up with a grease gun......No really, now what about the aluminum bits in the steering head bearings?
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February 9, 2006, 03:45 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by highsider
what about all the aluminum bits that are now in your lower steering head bearings? But cool Idea dude we could market that just put a zerc fitting in the threaded hole pump it up with a grease gun......No really, now what about the aluminum bits in the steering head bearings?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BurnCycle
The hole is not in a load sensitive area nor does it go through to the steering stem.
Not an issue.


Cheers,
Bern
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February 9, 2006, 04:36 PM

If you are worried about tank slappers breaking off the steering lock like that...get the lead wheel weights and stick them to it. The retricted range is not noticible...and the lead deforms and generally cushions the lock tab. Just a suggestion. (I'd also add it to the improvised stop you made.)

Just my $0.02.


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February 9, 2006, 09:51 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BurnCycle
BlackHatch, the idea of welding came to mind but the bearings would have to removed/replaced because of the heat generated in the process of welding the aluminum. The hole is not in a load sensitive area nor does it go through to the steering stem. Yes, it would have been questionable if I was drilling next to the welded frame rail. The welded area would then need to be cleaned and the material removed during that process would in effect weaken the stop.
We have welded them back up but because we not ultra concerned with the structural integrity of the the weld, we did not set to penetrate very deeply. That way, if you snap it off again, doesn't take a whole lot with it. Also, you can fill the steering head with water or a wet rag and not have to worry about pulling the bearings.
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February 9, 2006, 11:13 PM

burn right. Was the front end removed before that install? That is an issue if it wasn't
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February 10, 2006, 09:07 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by highsider
burn right. Was the front end removed before that install? That is an issue if it wasn't
No, it wasn't... No it's not.

I can guarantee that no metal shards dropped down on to the lower triple and then climbed up passed the seal to the bearings.


Cheers,
Bern
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