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CrazyMotorcycleGuy
Most users ever online was 4,519, September 2, 2015 at 03:26 AM.
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ArlingtonRider's Avatar
 
Posts: 1,395
Join Date: April 9, 2003
Location: Sol System
August 20, 2003, 07:50 PM

I have adjusted my clutch trying to tighten the cable as much as possible; but when at idle the rear wheel in 1st gear; and clutch pulled in is spinning, to an indicated 5mph. Reving to high RPMs and pulling in the clutch it will drop to 10mph. Obviously the clutch is not disengaging completely

Is this something I should be concerned about or can get by with?

Thanks!
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August 20, 2003, 08:20 PM

Matt, loosen-up, pal! Most people who try to adjust a clutch for the first time think it should be tight. In fact, the lever should have some free-play in it. Try to find a compromise with a friction point you're comfortable with. For me, that's with the lever ball almost an inch in from it's position when you let it all the way out. You want your clutch to be fully engaged with the lever out, but without any 'creep' with the lever in. If you can't find a point like that, your clutch might be going bad. If you can't disengage it completely with the lever pinned, you'll burn-up those plates!

[Edited on 21/8/2003 by JPVaccaro]


Johnny V.
CCS & ASRA #67

2006 Suzuki GSX-R1000
2004 Suzuki GSX-R600 (racing)
2004 Aprilia 1000 Mille R (street)
2001 Aprilia 1000 Falco (street)
2001 Suzuki GSX-R600 (racing)
1995 Kawasaki ZX-6E (street and racing)
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August 20, 2003, 10:29 PM

I always do the pencil adjustment. I loosen the cable to the point that I can slide a pencil or pen between the lever and the perch, seems to work well for me.
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August 21, 2003, 07:40 AM

Quote:
If you can't disengage it completely with the lever pinned, you'll burn-up those plates!
Great, just great. Hopefully it will last through the next 3 days. Most of my bikes spin a little - but the R6 locks in at 5mph at idle in first with the clutch in.

When I start revving it hits 10mph with the clutch in.
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August 21, 2003, 08:54 PM

yes, that's normal, they're suppose to do that. i assume u did this on rear stand and engaged clutch in and out and my bike can go up to 7mph with clutched out. it has to do with phsyics, i forget the exact name but something about rotational inertia with tranny, etc.....
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September 5, 2003, 04:04 PM

The reason the wheel spins is drag from the oil in the clutch. Even with the clutch plates apart there is still some hydraulic drag, I bet when you have the rear wheel on the ground it won’t turn....

Adjust the lever to have about 5mm to 10mm of free play at the lever end. Free play being movement of the lever before any tension is put on the cable to release the clutch. This will make sure that you have the clutch fully engaged at the full out position of the lever. Johnny V is correct in that you can burn up the clutch prematurely if you do not have free play in the clutch cable.

When you were adjusting the lever did you lube the piviot point and cable and make sure that the cable is routed properly??

A light lube like WD-40 works wonders for clutch feel. A quick shot in the cable housing and a dab of grease on the clutch perch, lever and piviot bolt, and the drag you may feel when puling the lever can be greatly reduced.


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ArlingtonRider's Avatar
 
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September 5, 2003, 04:21 PM

I correct this just as highsider suggested...increased the play and the clutch engaged/disengaged properly.

The rear wheel spin decreased some as well.

Just to be safe I had this checked out at the shop too and they gave it a clean bill of health.

Thanks for the replies!
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September 14, 2003, 10:59 AM

A friend at the track was having trouble with his clutch not engaging until almost all the way extended. Don't forget, there are two places to adjust it: up top by the lever and down low by the tranny.


Johnny V.
CCS & ASRA #67

2006 Suzuki GSX-R1000
2004 Suzuki GSX-R600 (racing)
2004 Aprilia 1000 Mille R (street)
2001 Aprilia 1000 Falco (street)
2001 Suzuki GSX-R600 (racing)
1995 Kawasaki ZX-6E (street and racing)
1986 Yamaha Radian 600
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