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Knee Draggin!
DemonRider's Avatar
Posts: 568
Join Date: September 30, 2002
Location: Tysons Corner
November 26, 2002, 07:30 PM

Well, I'm not a total expert but I did take a painting class back in college . . .
(Howie from the Fall Guy if anybody catches the reference!)

I don't think it should make a difference when sanding the repaired vs. undamaged sections, if the repairs were done properly, that is. If you have small pits/gouges, you can fill them with some primer filler. The best thing is to start out with a 180 grit and then probably finish with 220 before you spray the primer. You don't want too fine a finish before priming because the rough scratches give a good base to the primer to adhere to.

Prime it (a decent thick coat to start) and then spray a trace coat of some contrasting primer color after the base primer coat has completely dried (i.e. black if you use gray or red primer, or gray if you use black primer. A trace coat is just to speckle the entire surface with the contrasting color. The primer color should be based on what the finished color will be. Don't use black primer if your finished color will be white, for example.

Then next step is to wet sand it with some 600 grit until the trace coat is completely gone. The idea is to make the entire surface smooth without sanding completely through the primer coat. Once the trace coat is gone, you can spray another coat of primer and repeat the process. You can get better results if you repeat the process multiple time, but you can do just as good with one pass once you get the hang of it. just be careful not to sand completely through the primer coat, especially around corners and edges. Oh, and you have to wash the piece completely and run a tack cloth over it to remove dust and small particles each time you spray.

The next step is to spray the base coat (assuming you are doing a 2-stage paint job, i.e. base color and clear coat). 2-stage polyurethane is definitely the best way to go in terms of quality and durability, but you can do a 1-stage acrylic or laquer finish also (I would NOT recommend laquer, especially for a bike). The only pain about polyurethane is that you should NOT be doing it without a complete breathing aparatus (you should probably not do this in any case, but especially with polyurethane).


Well, sorry I gotta cut this short , gotta run now but I can try to give more info later if you'd like.


'05 GSX-R 750
'01 SV650S
Full D&D, Dynojet Stage I kit:
Shimmed needles, 150 mains, 17.5 pilots, 2.5 turns
De-snorkelled & de-fendered
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