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  (#1)
MSF Student
 
rnc_forever's Avatar
 
Posts: 94
Join Date: April 29, 2004
Location: Waldorf MD
March 21, 2005, 11:15 PM

Hey All,

I have a 02' CBR F4i. I've already missed too many good riding days so tomorrow I'm breaking the bike back out. My question is, what does everyone usually do to their bike/check on their bike, before the first ride? Is there any info out there on "To Do" before the first ride of the season.

As of right now I am replacing the battery, changing the oil, adjusting lubing the chain.

Do I burn through the tank of gas that has been sitting for months with stabalizer in it? Should I change/bleed my brake fluid? Tighten all the bolts, my first bike I rode all year round so I didn't have to worry as much about this.

Any help/pointers would be great !!!

Thanks,

Matt
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  (#2)
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Posts: 12,971
Join Date: March 9, 2004
Location: CashBurn, VA
March 22, 2005, 09:13 AM

Sounds like you have a good start. If you put stabilizer in the fuel, you should be able to use it just fine.

If you didn't run the bike at all during the winter, chances are the oil will have settled. Before you change your oil you should run your bike for a while to circulate the oil and change it when its warm.

Check the tire pressure. Your brakes should be fine (unless you have a leak somewhere) because its a closed system. Worthwhile to check it anyway. Check coolant overflow to make sure nothing leaked out.

Other than that, have fun! Just watch it - roads are still chilly and sandy from the winter.


(O|||||||O) and (0OO\(||||)(||||)/OO0)

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  (#3)
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Posts: 7,231
Join Date: August 31, 2003
Location: The LC
March 22, 2005, 09:26 AM

Got this from an earlier post:

TCLOCK method from http://gwrra-regionf.org/rider-ed/SafeTCLOCK.html

T -- Tires and Wheels - inspect condition of front and rear tires (pressure, tread), wheels, rims, bearings, and seals

C -- Controls - This covers the condition of levels, cables, hoses, and throttle

L -- Lights - Inspection of battery, lights lenses, reflectors, wiring, and the headlight reflector and aim of the headlight (right/ left & height)

O -- Oil - Check levels and for leaks in Engine oil, Hypoid gear oil, Hydraulic fluid, coolant and fuel

C -- Chassis - Inspect frame, steering head bearings, swingarm, and suspension

K -- Kickstand - Inspect Centerstand and side stand for cracks and bent parts. Maintain proper tension on springs to keep stand in place when folded up.


DBR
#135, #47, Vega
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whatever henry's name is these days: jason, seriously, im going to kick your face in when I get back
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  (#4)
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Posts: 42
Join Date: January 28, 2005
Location: NoVA
March 22, 2005, 09:35 AM

I have a CBR also and the only thing I really needed to do was bleed the rear brake because of a little air. If your rear brake feels spongy just get a plastic tube attach it to the brake cylinder, pump the brakes and look for the air pocket in the plastic tube. Refill and start over until all the air is out. If you do not want to be bothered with the hydraulic brake then you can always go cable for the rear, but it stops on the dime.


Gary D.
04 600 F4i

Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former
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  (#5)
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Posts: 94
Join Date: April 29, 2004
Location: Waldorf MD
March 22, 2005, 10:14 AM

Thanks All, I was wondering what TCLOCK was.
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  (#6)
CBR 600 RR
 
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Join Date: October 11, 2005
Location: Arlington, VA
January 20, 2006, 07:37 AM

You're an MSF student, TCLOCKS is key to remember.
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  (#7)
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Location: Boston, MA area
January 20, 2006, 08:02 AM

All good info. Also, check your airbox/filter. Often critters like to make nests in there. You'll hear varying opinions about the whole starting your bike and warming the oil v. just draining it. Some will tell you (as they often tell me) why start it up and mix all the sediment around. It's all at the bottom, so go ahead and drain it. I don't know if I really buy that, but it shouldn't really matter much if you winterized properly, you changed your oil before you stored it, so there shouldn't be much sediment. I'd say go ahead and warm it up before you drain it.

When was your last brake fluid change? If it is dark, or has been a year, change it. With the right tools, it's less than a 20 min job.
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  (#8)
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Join Date: June 15, 2004
January 20, 2006, 08:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by EduardoSuave
Got this from an earlier post:

TCLOCK method from http://gwrra-regionf.org/rider-ed/SafeTCLOCK.html

T -- Tires and Wheels - inspect condition of front and rear tires (pressure, tread), wheels, rims, bearings, and seals

C -- Controls - This covers the condition of levels, cables, hoses, and throttle

L -- Lights - Inspection of battery, lights lenses, reflectors, wiring, and the headlight reflector and aim of the headlight (right/ left & height)

O -- Oil - Check levels and for leaks in Engine oil, Hypoid gear oil, Hydraulic fluid, coolant and fuel

C -- Chassis - Inspect frame, steering head bearings, swingarm, and suspension

K -- Kickstand - Inspect Centerstand and side stand for cracks and bent parts. Maintain proper tension on springs to keep stand in place when folded up.
Good stuff Ed and Rob! Both of your responses should be combined and maybe added to a riding tips post for future reference.


Chris
2008 MARRC AM Racer of the Year
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  (#9)
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January 20, 2006, 08:07 AM

Great! I'm responding to an 2005 post. Thanks Buellin!
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  (#10)
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Posts: 94
Join Date: April 29, 2004
Location: Waldorf MD
January 20, 2006, 06:02 PM

Yeah, this is definetely an old post. Buellin', I am an MSF student per DCSportbikes.... I have been meaning to get out to the advanced rider course though.
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