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Sal_the_man, Triple X
Most users ever online was 4,519, September 2, 2015 at 03:26 AM.
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  (#1)
Got my Permit
 
cashj2002's Avatar
 
Posts: 49
Join Date: October 4, 2004
Location: Maryland
November 24, 2004, 08:01 AM

What type of oil, how many quarts and what type of oil filter should I buy?

Thanx!

Its a 03 600 !
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  (#2)
GP Champ
 
Posts: 2,839
Join Date: November 12, 2002
Location: Woodbridge, VA
November 24, 2004, 08:21 AM

You need 10w40. I always bought Suzuki oil and filters. If you still have the owners manual to the bike, it will be in there along with instructions on how to change it. But if not just buy 4 qts and fill to the full line on the oil filler window. It should be around 3.4 or so.

If you need isntructions...

To change the oil, run the bike close to operating temp, it might take a while in the colder weather so anything around 140-150 is pretty close, 180 is probably the norm but it will take forever to get it to that temp unless you ride it around. Make sure the bike is on a rear stand so that all the oil will drain out. You should just have to take the right fairing off and you should see the filter up front near the header. The oil pan is directly underneath the bike. Drain oil and replace filter. The bolt should be put on finger tight and then get a wrench to turn it a 1/4 turn. The filter can be put on hand tight too. Fill up oil to the fill line and run the bike again to get the oil moving around the motor. Take the bike off the stand and check and see where the level is by holding the bike upright. Fill if needed.


Katie 135
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  (#3)
Got Any Gwapes?
 
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Posts: 2,362
Join Date: December 19, 2003
Location: Rockville
November 24, 2004, 09:14 AM

Well said Brooks...one word of advice, don't run synthetic oil til the bike has about 3k miles...it needs to break in first. Just for future reference.


"I didn't know they gave out rings at the Holocaust"

*GODFATHER*
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  (#4)
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flippinrocks's Avatar
 
Posts: 351
Join Date: December 21, 2004
Location: Frederick
December 30, 2004, 06:55 PM

dont forget your oil needs to be a certain rating.

A.P.I rating sf/sg

good chance it wont be in pepboys either.
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  (#5)
whats in your drink?
 
DRAGULA's Avatar
 
Posts: 7,808
Join Date: May 25, 2004
Location: Mineral VA. If you know where it is you can pass go
December 30, 2004, 07:26 PM

Amazingly I saw Mobil 1 motorcycle at Pep punks once.


Tell 'em Large Marge sent ya!
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Take care of new riders, we were them, and they will be us.
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  (#6)
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Join Date: December 27, 2002
December 30, 2004, 09:38 PM

lube the rubber gasket on the filter before you install it. trust me. Doubling up on rubber filter gaskets because the old one welds itself to the block = loud pop and a giant fucking mess.


If you drink and ride, I have no pity for you. At all, ever.
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Join Date: December 21, 2004
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December 31, 2004, 04:25 PM

ouch twiggy, good call
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  (#8)
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Join Date: October 1, 2002
Location: Boston, MA area
January 21, 2005, 01:04 PM

Found an interesting write-up that you might find interesting, FWIW.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Quote:
Choosing a Break-In Oil for Your Motorcycle
The theory that synthetic oils should not be used during break in is the same as the theory that your engine will break in better if you use synthetic oil but add a dinner candle to your four quarts of engine oil. Frankly, I find this theory, um, questionable. Oh, hell, laughable. Corvettes and Porsches come from the factory with Mobil-1 in their engines. Remember, these engineers have designed world-champion engines for F1, Indy, Le Mans 24 hours, etc.

There's a lot of mythology surrounding break-in oil. It's simply not the case that synthetic oils are more "slippery" than conventional oils. Also, break-in of a modern engine is completely different than break-in of an engine made before about 1980. Modern engines, by comparison to something made in the '60s, are pretty much already broken in from the factory due to the fact that today we hold much tighter machining tolerances. The exception, of course, would be the Ural, a motorcycle made on a production line unmodified since about 1935.

I recommend you change your break-in oil at 75 to 100 miles, 100 to 150 kilometers. Your engine does shed a fair amount of metal particles in the first 20-50 miles, and I really can't understand why you would want this stuff floating around your bearings for the first 600 miles, 1000 kilometers.

I put Shell Rotella "synthetic" (87% group III) oil in my DL650 at 75 miles. It burns no oil, gets great gas mileage, and runs great. I recommend you switch to a good synthetic at your first oil change.
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  (#9)
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Join Date: May 11, 2005
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May 23, 2005, 02:57 PM

this is good info.. well help save me some money int he future.
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  (#10)
whoa preppy......
 
Scot's Avatar
 
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May 23, 2005, 03:03 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twiggy6
lube the rubber gasket on the filter before you install it. trust me. Doubling up on rubber filter gaskets because the old one welds itself to the block = loud pop and a giant fucking mess.


that guy is a dick. I am glad he is gone.
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  (#11)
Has an idiot exemption
 
Triple X's Avatar
 
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Join Date: September 29, 2002
Location: Stephens City, VA
May 23, 2005, 04:00 PM

Gone but not forgotten...


Steve
2015 Yamaha R1
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  (#12)
Meh
 
Posts: 7,968
Join Date: October 1, 2002
May 24, 2005, 10:07 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twiggy6
lube the rubber gasket on the filter before you install it. trust me. Doubling up on rubber filter gaskets because the old one welds itself to the block = loud pop and a giant fucking mess.


that guy is a dick. I am glad he is gone.
Who was this. I have an idea but somebody drop the dime...
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