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  (#1)
Knee Draggin!
 
DemonRider's Avatar
 
Posts: 568
Join Date: September 30, 2002
Location: Tysons Corner
February 8, 2003, 03:05 PM

I am considering getting this little mod: http://ebay1.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_...a50e92/i-1.JPG

G-pack is a module which has the capability to optimize the performance of your engine to a maximum, particularly during the phases of acceleration from low to mid range. G-pack was especially developed to bypass the RPM-limitation installed by the manufacturers in order to conform with local regulations imposed in a number of countries. The result of this research: maximum torque and power with exceptional acceleration in the low and mid range permitting full exploitation of your engine power band resulting in greater riding pleasures. G-pack is composed of an electronic box with dimensions of 45 x 45 x 16 mm.

Anyone have any experience with this thing? From what I've read, the SV only has a different iginition map for 2 and 3rd gears at lower rpm's, but they seem to imply that this mod will help throughout the gear/rev range?


Kal

'05 GSX-R 750
'01 SV650S
Full D&D, Dynojet Stage I kit:
Shimmed needles, 150 mains, 17.5 pilots, 2.5 turns
De-snorkelled & de-fendered
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  (#2)
Ballaugh Bridge
 
CrazyMotorcycleGuy's Avatar
 
Posts: 6,865
Join Date: September 29, 2002
Location: VA
February 8, 2003, 05:08 PM

Not necessary, a waste of money.


-------------------------------------------------------------------
How to Disable the Ignition Retard Mechanism on the SV
By Stephen George steve.george@smgee.co.uk

What's it all about?
As you probably know, the SV has a "mapped" ignition system, which by modern
car standards is fairly simple. A small box of electronics (I shall call it
the "ignition controller") measures things like engine revs and how far open
the throttle is, then decides the correct time to fire the spark plugs as
each piston approaches the top of its compression stroke. If the spark
occurs too soon (i.e. the timing is advanced), pinking will occur with the
possibility of engine damage; if the spark occurs too late (i.e. the
ignition timing is retarded), then the power output from the engine will
decrease. As the bike does not have ram-air induction and a pressurised
airbox, you would expect the ignition controller to use the same "map" (or
set of ignition timings), regardless of which gear the bike is in. This is
the case, but with a subtle exception.
In certain territories, the bike has to pass a drive-by noise test, which
apparently involves accelerating hard past a microphone in 2nd and 3rd
gears. In order to get through this test, it seems Suzuki decided to
cheat! They designed the ignition controller to retard the ignition timing
when the bike is in 2nd and 3rd gears. This must reduce the noise enough to
pass the test, but it also knocks the power back a little bit too. This is
obviously a Very Bad Thing! For all the other gears, the standard ignition
timing is used
What follows is essentially a description of the work done on my bike by my
dealer, at their suggestion. I have simply taken some pictures and filled
in a little background information. My bike is a UK, 2001 model SVS. I
have purposely made this article quite noddy, for those who have never
delved under the tank before, so I apologise if youčve heard it all before

What's the plan?
Simple. If the ignition controller doesnčt know when the bike is in 2nd or
3rd gear, it will use the same ignition timing as for all the other gears,
so no power loss.
The ignition controller detects when the bike is in 2nd or 3rd gear by a
switch in the gearbox. This switch has four contacts, as it also indicates
when the bike is in neutral * have a look at the "Neutral Indicator Light
Switch"
in the Wiring Diagram picture.

One wire is a common earth (black with a white stripe in the diagram); one
detects neutral (blue); and the remaining two wires (red with a yellow
stripe and green with a blue stripe) detect 2nd and 3rd and go to the
ignition controller. It is these two wires that we have to cut or
disconnect. (As an aside, there is a mistake in the wiring diagram. The
red/yellow wire does not turn into a yellow/blue wire as shown, at least,
not on my bike.)

What to do.
The wiring we need to disconnect is located under the tank. In order to
lift the tank and gain access, we must first remove the seat. Begin by
undoing the bolts that hold the black plastic side panels in place (there is
one bolt per side).
It is not necessary to remove the plastic side panels, they can be swung
outwards to reveal the seat mounting bolts (one per side).

Undo the seat mounting bolts and the seat can be lifted clear. Next undo
the two bolts on top of the tank at the very front.

As the tank is hinged at its rear, the front can now be lifted to gain
access to the wiring. There should be a metal rod under the rear seat to
prop the tank up.

The wiring we need to gain access to is located on the left side of the
bike, near the airbox, where there is a rubber boot that covers a 4-pin
connector.

Slide the rubber boot forwards to gain access to the connector. The 4 wires
entering the connector from the rear are from the gearbox. The red wire
with a yellow stripe and the green wire with a blue stripe are the two wires
we need to disconnect.

In this case, the 4-pin connector has been dismantled and the relevant
contacts removed from one half, rather than just cutting the wires. Either
way, it is important to insulate the bare ends. Heat shrink sleeving is
preferable, or some self-amalgamating tape that most DIY shops sell.
Electrical insulation tape is pretty useless as it tends to fall off when it
gets hot.

That's about it. Now you'll have enough power to wheelie on half throttle.
Ok, I lied! Don't expect miracles, I don't think the increase is huge and
remember it only affects 2nd and 3rd gears, but it must be a worthwhile
modification or my dealer wouldn't have suggested doing it, and it doesn't
cost you anything.
----------------------------------------------------------------------



I did the above to mine and the only way to tell any difference would be on a dyno.


'08 MARRC Expert Racer of the Year
2009 #3 Combined Overall Championship

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  (#3)
Knee Draggin!
 
DemonRider's Avatar
 
Posts: 568
Join Date: September 30, 2002
Location: Tysons Corner
February 9, 2003, 11:15 AM

Yeah, I found that article before too and suspected as much. I was just wondering if the G-pack did anything else different to increase performance. It's nice that the G-pack does not require you to cut any wires and can retain the stock connectors, but it's definitely not worth $140 if that's all it gets you. I will probably just end up clipping the wires too just to see what it does.


Kal

'05 GSX-R 750
'01 SV650S
Full D&D, Dynojet Stage I kit:
Shimmed needles, 150 mains, 17.5 pilots, 2.5 turns
De-snorkelled & de-fendered
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  (#4)
Signed up for Track Days!
 
Johnny's Avatar
 
Posts: 241
Join Date: November 24, 2002
February 12, 2003, 01:08 PM

am I wrong or is this just the TRE mod?
$10 at radio shack, right?

[Edited on 12/2/2003 by Johnny]


Goin back to cali, cali, cali, cali
02 GSXR 600
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  (#5)
GP Champ
 
Twiggy6's Avatar
 
Posts: 2,115
Join Date: December 27, 2002
February 20, 2003, 09:02 PM

Most suzukis use a 6.8 ohm resister. I don't know if it's the same for the SV. I know it's the same for TLR/GSXR600/750/1000 and Hayabusa. That's all the TRE/Gpack is. It tells the GPS the bike is in 5th gear.


If you drink and ride, I have no pity for you. At all, ever.
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  (#6)
GP Champ
 
Posts: 2,839
Join Date: November 12, 2002
Location: Woodbridge, VA
February 20, 2003, 09:05 PM

Brandon ND4SPD on here said he did the TRE mod on his Gix 750. anyone who is interested might want to get in touch with him.


Katie 135
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