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Anyone have experience with remodeling a bathroom?
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AMSOIL/NGK Dealer
 
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Anyone have experience with remodeling a bathroom? - November 3, 2009, 03:21 PM

I'm getting ready to demolish my masterbathroom this weekend (rip out the old tiles, doors and flooring from my shower and install everything new...possibly even doing the floors.) Anyone else have experience with this?

I'm trying to decide wether to use a concrete wall behind the tiles or just put in new wall board.


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November 3, 2009, 03:32 PM

put in a bide' also, it's the new cool thing!


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November 3, 2009, 04:16 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DC-MOTO View Post
I'm getting ready to demolish my masterbathroom this weekend (rip out the old tiles, doors and flooring from my shower and install everything new...possibly even doing the floors.) Anyone else have experience with this?

I'm trying to decide wether to use a concrete wall behind the tiles or just put in new wall board.
Got the hook up

chuck moeser
571-276-1298


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November 3, 2009, 04:30 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by J dubbz View Post
Got the hook up

chuck moeser
571-276-1298
Thanks.


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done for now...
 
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November 3, 2009, 04:31 PM

http://www.usg.com/navigate.do?resou...ment_Board.htm
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November 3, 2009, 04:35 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by steele11 View Post
Yeah I was thinking about using this...

Good find.

Keep em coming


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November 3, 2009, 04:58 PM

tile backer or cement board behind tiles, no question.

personally, i've used james hardie hardiebacker fiber cement board or
georgia pacific denshield, either one. the hardiebacker is hella heavy, so i'd tend toward the G-P denshield if it's convenient.

moist environment (everywhere else): MR drywall "greenboard" or USG aqua-tough interior wallboard, universal primer sealer over level 5 prepared surface, then min. 2 coats semi-gloss latex or vinyl wallcovering or whatever. if you go with wallcovering, you can back down to level 4 surface prep.

these days everyones skeert of mold, so you may want to check out paperless wallboard as well. USG has one, so do a few others.

also, eff tile adhesive. I'd recommend portland thinset with a latex admixture. just dont be sloppy with it. and clean it up right away if it gets on the tile face or where it would show through the grout. you can latex the grout too. and seal it afterwards.

corners can be filled with sanded sealant, color matched to the grout. (dont grout the corners, then fill 'em solid with sanded sealant to avoid vertical cracks in the corners). and if you have an old house, bouncy floor, or whatever, you might want to consider a crack isolation membrane like schluter-systems ditra or equivalent. or reinforce the floor if you're gonna be increasing the weight substantially.

whatever, food for thought.
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November 3, 2009, 05:08 PM

Thanks Bikrsk8r!!!!

Huge help!

Where is a good place to buy tile? I hear that it's not a good idea to buy tile from Lowe's or Home Depot as they only carry certain tile for about 6 months and then discontinue it.


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November 3, 2009, 05:14 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DC-MOTO View Post
Thanks Bikrsk8r!!!!

Huge help!

Where is a good place to buy tile? I hear that it's not a good idea to buy tile from Lowe's or Home Depot as they only carry certain tile for about 6 months and then discontinue it.
Nonesense pimp. Its worth the money plus you usually end up with a bunch of extras that you can use in case something chips. If you need help my boy could do the whole thing cheap. He remodelled both of my bathrooms for next to nothing. All tile floors and showers

Volki 703-200-4168

He primarily specializes in granite etc... We did all granite kitchen, bathrooms for cheap as well!


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November 3, 2009, 05:17 PM

Thanks Turk!

I'll definetely call your boy and Jdubbz boy about pricing.


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November 3, 2009, 08:50 PM

Been there, remodeled that. I tiled floors and walls in 2 bathrooms so far. Durock is good to put under tile, but greenboard is sufficient for non-tiled surfaces. One big lesson I learned is that sanded grout is for tile spacings larger than 1/8. inches. Unless you have small tiles spaced closely, use sanded grout or you'll have CRACKED grout.

Buying tiles from Home Depot or Lowe's is fine. Buy more than you need, you can return individual tiles when you've purchased too many. Buy a tile saw. They are WONDERFUL and worth every penny. Tiling around curved items (like pipes) is a royal pain. Just so you know.


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November 3, 2009, 10:06 PM

If you are tiling your bath/shower you may buy a wet saw for all that cutting - but tiling the floor only takes a day and half for most baths so you can rent.

Just be sure to get the floor done and toilet back on within a short period of time...you will cover up the pipes to the sewer b/c of common sense - but if you do not have those traps back in place you really do not want to know what types of things can come out of the sewer pipes when you go to remount the toilet or sink. I still have nightmares from a prolonged remodel I did of a bathroom.
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November 4, 2009, 06:24 AM

Why wont anyone hit up MikeB? he has a thread dedicated to performing projects like this for .netters... why not let one .netter help another out? come on keep it in the fam.


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November 4, 2009, 06:42 AM

+gixer

1. Cement Board for walls especially since a tile wall becomes very heavy.
2. Personally i would go with drywall and paint on the walls if your doing tile floor
3. If doing large tile floor, rent a wet saw as a scratch tool is very hard to make detailed cuts.
4. When replacing toilet make sure you get a new wax ring for under the toilet.

When the tile floor is up make sure to check for wet spot on the floor and replace or let dry for awhile and find where the leak was coming from. The reason I suggest drywal and paint is it allows you to customize and saves money. It will also go with a large tile floor better.


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