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Features for ride-on mower
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  (#1)
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Features for ride-on mower - June 5, 2016, 12:28 AM

So I just bought a house with a large enough yard that a walk-behind takes me about two hours to do. Hence, I'm looking into the possibility of a ride-on mower. I've always used a self-propelled walk-behind so I know nothing about ride-ons.

Obviously, I'd want one with a deck roughly twice the size of the 22" I have now but aside from that, what should I look for? I have lots of trees (read:roots) that I'll need to drive over, as well as a stormwater drainage ditch of varying slope.

Any insight is appreciated!



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Meh
 
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June 5, 2016, 08:32 AM

Whats the slope like?

Are you going to be in the home for a long time?

How much land exactly?

Are you in good physical condition?
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June 5, 2016, 09:00 AM

I bought one a year or two ago; didn't get a zero turn but something close to that. Haven't been disappointed; turning radius is very tight. Not much else to add; just don't think full on zero turn is worth paying up for.


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June 5, 2016, 09:46 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackHatch View Post
Whats the slope like?

Are you going to be in the home for a long time?

How much land exactly?

Are you in good physical condition?
All good questions, also budget. If you are looking at a final home and plan on mowing yourself for 30 years, I have a very different suggestion than if you plan on 5 years. Also will you keep up with the maintenance of the machine. some you can beat and toss, others are worth the maintenance. If 2G isnt a problem find a used ride behind pro mower, and you will kill your yard in 20 min. And your kids can make bank hitting the neighbors yards.


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  (#5)
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June 5, 2016, 12:31 PM

do yourself a favor and get a hydrostatic. I have one. It is a fucking beast. SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much better than anything else. Mines a honda. I got it for 150$ and its 20 years old and I use it to destroy all sorts of shit it really shouldnt, and it wont be stopped.

HYDRO BRO!

if you ever plan on getting larger property if you get a "lawn tractor" you will get a hook up so you can run a bunch of other badass shit too.
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June 5, 2016, 01:03 PM

Shop Husqvarna YTH24V48 24-HP V-Twin Hydrostatic 48-in Riding Lawn Mower at Lowes.com


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So in summary you're a little bitch, nobody believes your bitchass about anything, you look like a bitch, you sound like a whiny bitch and you've probably been a bitch for a long time.

All I want to know, how old were you when you realized you were a bitch? or did someone else have to tell you?

The only thing you can Jocky is the keyboard, so why dont you stfu Bitch

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June 5, 2016, 01:05 PM

Had mine for a while. Love it. Hydrostatic is awesome. Got mine off amazon for cheaper an free delivery.


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So in summary you're a little bitch, nobody believes your bitchass about anything, you look like a bitch, you sound like a whiny bitch and you've probably been a bitch for a long time.

All I want to know, how old were you when you realized you were a bitch? or did someone else have to tell you?

The only thing you can Jocky is the keyboard, so why dont you stfu Bitch
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June 5, 2016, 01:55 PM

You know that landscaping company that keeps winning the bid for the XyZ community you manage?

Well you politely mention that if they want to continue winning the bid there's a little patch of property that needs to get taken care of 2x a month gratis. Not much ... basic lawn cutting, weed and seed each season.

20 minute job with all the mowers and personnel they have.





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June 5, 2016, 08:15 PM

Get the seat springs sprung for your weight. Since you are a lightweight, you probably won't need to upgrade to better dampers to keep from getting seat bounce that'll try to buck you off the top on certain roots.

Make sure you have good tires. OEM are ok for putting around. Get some that will allow you to turn on a dime without excessive wheel spin. That will cost you time cutting the grass.

Get lightweight TI mower blades. They will net you about .4 a second per 100 feet depending on the gradient.

Last, make sure you have a good set of front canyards to keep traction on the front. You don't want the thing to wheelie on you as you try to put the power down and snip those blades of grass.


More gas, less brake
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June 5, 2016, 08:37 PM

Used to sell Mowers and whatnot, there are two main manufacturers if you go to Lowes, Depot or Sears. They all sell the same stuff with different brands slapped on top.

American Yard Products and MTD. Look on the back of the mower for the manufacturers sticker, it will be one or the other.

You don't get real John Deer until you get into a John Deer dealership, so don't think too much about the brand.

Zero Turns rock but are expensive and if you get a cheap on it might fail due to the dual transmissions they have or...don't have. They save a ton of time and you get a manicured lawn look, with a typical Yard or Garden tractor you have to plan every turn according to the shape of your lawn.

If you have Ruts and roots like you mentioned make sure the deck is floats (it wiggles all over the place to adjust to your roots.) With that being said you NEED a bunch of guide wheels on the deck so the deck doesn't scalp while it floats around. If you can get them on a minimum of 4 corners you'll get a better cut with less scalping.

Engines; Briggs makes tons of them, Kohler makes some, there are a bunch of chinese engines snuck into some mowers...avoid them if they don't have a name. If you have a bunch of hills pressure lubrication (Kohler used to be famous for it) is more reliable than splash for hills.

Decks are usually 42-54" (bigger at commercial). A 42 has two blades and 54 has 3...there are also some odd ball decks, choose at your will and based on reviews.


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June 5, 2016, 08:47 PM

Some other minor things to consider
---
Foot accelerator, hand accelerator, auto, semi-manual (stop every time between gears), steering radius, tire size, carb'd, FI, headlights, bumpers, tires, capability to take attachments like plows, trailers, Gas tank location (bumper, engine bay)...don't buy one in the engine bay...mine exploded lol. Engine hour meter, Steering radius...


There's so many things on those tractors, take some time and sit on them and notice all the subtle differences. They all look like bikes when we first see them but they're super different.


2001 Kawasaki ZX6R: Yoshi slip-on
1999 Trans AM WS6, Long tubes, full exhaust, extra sexy
2006 GTO 6spd, 1 of 390 Silver, SLP LM1 (Sold)
2001 R1; blue, Yoshi slip on (sold Jan 12, 2012)
(RIP) 2000 Camaro SS
1999 Trans Am Ws6 30k miles, 6spd (sold)
1999 Camaro coupe 6 cyl (traded in after a week to get the SS)
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June 5, 2016, 09:07 PM

Fack, I'm not even looking for a riding mower and now I'll never buy one it's so complicated... lol


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June 5, 2016, 09:26 PM

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Fack, I'm not even looking for a riding mower and now I'll never buy one it's so complicated... lol
Money brings all the boys to the yard...with mowers. They also come to the lawn for Popsicles.


2001 Kawasaki ZX6R: Yoshi slip-on
1999 Trans AM WS6, Long tubes, full exhaust, extra sexy
2006 GTO 6spd, 1 of 390 Silver, SLP LM1 (Sold)
2001 R1; blue, Yoshi slip on (sold Jan 12, 2012)
(RIP) 2000 Camaro SS
1999 Trans Am Ws6 30k miles, 6spd (sold)
1999 Camaro coupe 6 cyl (traded in after a week to get the SS)
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June 6, 2016, 01:39 AM

How many roots/ how many trees are we talking? If you're heavily wooded, a commercial walk behind would be better than a ride-on. One like dis:


I definitely wouldn't recommend a zero-turn for that yard.. guessing if you did it in 2 hrs with a 22" mower it's under an acre.. for that size, and with the trees and such, a lawn tractor would be far more useful than a Z-T. a Z-T mows, that's it. You can hook a plow up to a lawn tractor during the winter, take the deck off and hook a trailer up, and some of the heavier duty ones have PTO hookups for tillers/ snowblowers/ etc.

No Ti blades. Ti has benefits for some applications, but is a terrible material for a blade, especially since you have those roots. Steel is far more durable. The weight is a good thing.
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Meh
 
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June 6, 2016, 08:14 AM

I think he was joking about the blades.

I would go with the suggestion above. Go with a walk behind and belt driven at that. The hydrostatic units are nice, but you don't need that extra complexity and possible service issues if you don't know how the unit was maintained before.

You will probably find a bunch more, cheaper, near the end of the season. I would look for a lightly used homeowner unit as it won't be plagued with the same issues of commercial units.

Items to check, outside of the standard engine and transmission stuff, are going to be spindles and deck condition. The decks can form cracks around the spindles and the spindles can be expensive if they are worn out.
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