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09-2014 R1: Clutch Burns....Graves Clutch Mod
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Question 09-2014 R1: Clutch Burns....Graves Clutch Mod - March 23, 2014, 07:14 PM

As most know....the 2009 to 2014 R1 have grabby clutches. This makes the bike feel good track wise, but not so good to ride in the streets with traffic, launching and throttle wise.

Graves Yamaha makes a Kit that replace the last Friction Plate with a 3 piece (Friction plate, Plate Seat, & Spring Clutch Boss). This eliminate the grabby feel when engaging the bike and make shifting smoother.

So I upgraded my GF bike this weekend....this "Grabby feel" was the main reason she wanted to sell her bike. After riding it I also agreed it's a feel closer to a Dry Clutch/V twin feel. It requires you to feather the clutch way more than you normally do...not much in way of middle ground....too little gas and it stalls, too much and it spins out...So you end up doing a Drag race style clutch slip all day long...

With this said....

I noticed that her steels were burnt pretty bad on both side....but the Friction plates look good.

I pretty much know Im going to replace the whole clutch pack, but I guess I wanted to show others who work / replace clutches these burnt clutches...

I have changed about 5 clutches, but never seen them burnt so much...

Have you?
How do these look to you?
would you change just the steel or both?
what do you think caused this burning? I told my GF I think its because of the feathering....

THe bike is a 2011 R1

9,800 miles

Quote:
Ps: To any 09+ R1 owners...this is a must have mod to smooth out initial engagement and makes it feel like a Kaw, Honda, and Zuki.


















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March 23, 2014, 07:17 PM

After the mod...took her out about 3am to 5am....

The mod def helps smoother out the throttle....



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March 23, 2014, 07:21 PM

I don't like the uneven 'burns' on the clutch steels. That can't be good. And yes, I'd replace them.

Did you check for any kind of warping on the steels and fibers? It's just an odd wear pattern that I've never seen before.

Mud


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March 23, 2014, 09:12 PM

I need to do the graves clutch mod on mine. The clutch definitely takes a while to get used to and has such a weird feeling. Especially with the YEC ECU throttle response. How difficult was the install?


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March 23, 2014, 11:51 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MudDawg View Post
I don't like the uneven 'burns' on the clutch steels. That can't be good. And yes, I'd replace them.

Did you check for any kind of warping on the steels and fibers? It's just an odd wear pattern that I've never seen before.

Mud

I check by eye and they look flat...and the burn spots had nothing in the texture to ... i guess elevate it..

My GF is the original owner and the clutch never been opened...it has the look of a clutch that you mix the stiff springs with soft springs....like 3 OEM and 3 Barnett springs...but its all OEM...
I think its from the 1st gear feathering....Either Ill get a new set of clutches or get her to get them, then crack this back open.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick View Post
I need to do the graves clutch mod on mine. The clutch definitely takes a while to get used to and has such a weird feeling. Especially with the YEC ECU throttle response. How difficult was the install?
Yeah...I have the ECU flash...left throttle posistion at OEM on STD mode, took off 100% of the electronic engine braking (that also helps with the toss you forward motion when rolling off the gas) trued 80% off and that help...but 100% off felt better...
EURO air box mod, Bazzaz TC package....(just remembered I forgot to put the QS on)....

The install.....was the easiest one I ever did....
Ive done 2 Kaw 636 , 2 ZX10R and a suki....

I thought this was going to be the hardest one...but it was super easy....
Most times getting the Shift shaft back in is hard...but I think I got this on the 3rd try.

I forgot to get a new gasket, but the aluminum Yammy used was good enough to reuse...

I think using a Torque wrench was a good idea...I tend to over tighten.

I hit up Justin at Superbikesunlimited for the clutch kit...but they are oem parts as you might know...

I think the last part of the puzzel is the throttle.....I tested the spring tension agains my Kaws, and Honda....and the R1 spring tension is super light...so easy to twist it too fast...smallest bump make you pull it back...

I need to test this in full on warm day...so I can really see...and would be nice if the suspension was set for my weight...my GF is a 100 lbs lighter than me lol and its set for her weight.....felt like a rocking horse..


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March 24, 2014, 10:14 AM

I probably should have posted this in the Yamaha section.....4got.


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March 24, 2014, 10:57 AM

Yeah, I'm with you on replacing the entire clutch pack. I don't have a ton of experience with repairing beat-up clutches but I've had very limited success mixing used and new steel plates and friction discs. I finally have given up going that route and now replace the entire clutch pack and call it a day. Results in more riding, less wrenching.



You can check the steels flatness on a piece of glass in a pinch, or clean them of all oil and stack the steels together to see of there is any slight gaps between them. I'm guessing based on the pics that there are some that aren't true.


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March 24, 2014, 12:18 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by windblown View Post
Yeah, I'm with you on replacing the entire clutch pack. I don't have a ton of experience with repairing beat-up clutches but I've had very limited success mixing used and new steel plates and friction discs. I finally have given up going that route and now replace the entire clutch pack and call it a day. Results in more riding, less wrenching.



You can check the steels flatness on a piece of glass in a pinch, or clean them of all oil and stack the steels together to see of there is any slight gaps between them. I'm guessing based on the pics that there are some that aren't true.

What do you think cause that? (slight gap)

I plan on doing OEM, but have you heard of any after market that is tried and true or better/last longer/grip more than OEM?


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March 24, 2014, 12:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by vonstallin View Post
What do you think cause that? (slight gap)

I plan on doing OEM, but have you heard of any after market that is tried and true or better/last longer/grip more than OEM?
Not sure on the gap issues but when researching the clutch for my R6 there was no better option than the OEM replacement which all the top racers seemed to use primarily.


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March 24, 2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by vonstallin View Post
What do you think cause that? (slight gap)

I plan on doing OEM, but have you heard of any after market that is tried and true or better/last longer/grip more than OEM?
I *think* the most common cause is overheating. I can tell you that lots of low speed slipping can overheat an oil cooled clutch and cause plates to warp. I did that on my KTM by slipping the clutch a lot in first gear stuff off road. Some is fine, for an extended period of time, not so much. If the bike has been ridden a lot in town with frequent first gear stops/starts while fighting a grabby clutch that may be the culprit right there.

I'm in the OEM crowd when it comes to replacing clutches, however I have relied on others experiences with aftermarket. Can't speak from personal experience.


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March 24, 2014, 01:09 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jshep View Post
Not sure on the gap issues but when researching the clutch for my R6 there was no better option than the OEM replacement which all the top racers seemed to use primarily.
Thats what I found on my Kaws...600s and 1000s. I was surprised that the OEM performed the best vs. after market. I had some Barnetts and the review said that the design of them caused more fiber to get tossed in the oil..and the material grip better but wore more.

I was told EBC are just as good as OEM...but I dont know....


Quote:
Originally Posted by windblown View Post
I *think* the most common cause is overheating. I can tell you that lots of low speed slipping can overheat an oil cooled clutch and cause plates to warp. I did that on my KTM by slipping the clutch a lot in first gear stuff off road. Some is fine, for an extended period of time, not so much. If the bike has been ridden a lot in town with frequent first gear stops/starts while fighting a grabby clutch that may be the culprit right there.

I'm in the OEM crowd when it comes to replacing clutches, however I have relied on others experiences with aftermarket. Can't speak from personal experience.
That sounds about what Im thinking.
The R1 is hot by nature...so when I met my GF...well started dating she complained how hot the bike was (bone stock) so drop off the hot OEM pipes for cooler carbon pipes, flashed the ECU to make the fan come on and off at 205-196 vs. 220-210
and she use to spin up the rear wheels allot when she first got the bike...I put on Bazzaz to help with 1st gear launches...


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