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Dealer Mode for GSXR Questions
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Dealer Mode for GSXR Questions - May 17, 2011, 08:30 AM

I am planning on installing a switch to pull what I hope is a minor FI code(s). I have a diagram attached and is the way I plan on wiring. I had a few questions for you all that I hope you could answer.

1. What is the difference between a rocker switch and a spst switch? My guess is that a rocker switch has power running to it. For my purposes, can I use either one? I have wires running to my front fairing for LEDs so there is already wiring going up there. My question ultimately is based off of size, I know you can get rocker switches really tiny since my LEDs are controlled by a rocker switch.

2. I plan on hooking this up with two butt connectors (Tyco Electronics Butt Splices Vinyl 16-14 AWG, 75/Clam - Tyco Electronics Butt Splices Vinyl 16-14 AWG, 75/Clam - CPGI-2-1838200-0-75 at The Home Depot) and two wires, but 16 or 18 gauge? Can you provide links for some examples that I could buy? There are so many kinds and types! I'm guessing they should be insulated wire. And this spst switch, SPST Push On-Push Off Switch (SPST Push On-Push Off Switch - RadioShack.com) but like I mention above I want to see if I can use something smaller like a rocker switch. I plan to install either switch up front and hidden.

3. When I install this, do I need to disconnect the battery or will I be fine if the bike is turned off and ignition is in off position?

4. Do I need to use spade connectors to connect the wires to the switch? I was watching a video yesterday on YouTube and they used spade connectors. Can you provide a link for these that would work with the wires above in question # 2?

This is my first EVER "electrical" project on ANYTHING so please bare with me. I've read a lot of dealer mode threads on the web but none get into details like these. Since I own very little tools I will have to buy the multi-purpose wire cutter/splitter/crimper for this little "project" of mine. If someone has done this before and/or wants to help me do a professional install that would be cool too.

Thanks for your help.
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May 17, 2011, 09:10 AM

Given the nature of your questions and since you will be playing with circuitry that involves the ECU I would advise against this little project.

Having said that:

1) Any decent switch is going to provide you with a load rating. I would think the load on the switch would be extremely small, therefore almost any would do. If you can't decipher what numbers on the switch mean and how how it applies to the project I recomend re-reading my first sentence.

2) Wire size: Like switches and most things electrical, it is sized by load rating. What is the load?

3) Yes, you want insulated wire. Any wire that is not bare metal is insulated with a sheath of some sort. All insulated wire of a given guage is not created equal. An 18guage wire can be single stand, or multi-strand, and the number of strands vary as well. The material used for the insulating sheath varies too, depending on application and how critical it is.

If you are bound and determined to proceed I would recomend the following. Get a decent multi-meter so you know what you are working with. Buy a couple of Radio-shacks beginning electrical circuitry books, they will explain all sorts of things about basic circuitry that will help you get a better understanding of these types of projects before you attach something wrong and let the smoke out of an expensive part.
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May 17, 2011, 09:11 AM

i think you are over thinking this.

get a switch, make sure it is not a momentary switch...like your start button

Amazon.com: Pilot LED Round Rocker Switch - Green: Home Improvement Amazon.com: Pilot LED Round Rocker Switch - Green: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: Pilot LED Round Rocker Switch - Green: Home ImprovementAmazon.com: Pilot LED Round Rocker Switch - Green: Home Improvement



there are 3 male spades on the bottom, 2 of them are connected when the switch is on and disconnected when the switch is off. the third one does the LED light. forget about the LED light.

cut your 2 dealer mode wires from the connector and then use some wire butt connectors to lengthen the wires so they will reach where the switch will be mounted. use 18g or 20g wire.

use female spades on the wires to the switch

drill a hole and pop the switch in and then connect the wiring







go to autozone

get this

Painless Wiring/25 ft. 18 gauge black extreme condition electrical wire (71866) | Electrical Wire | AutoZone.com

these

Dorman/Conduct-Tite 50 pcs. 22-18 gauge red weatherproof butt connector (85244) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com

these in 22-18 gauge

Dorman/Conduct-Tite 1/4 in. 16-14 gauge blue female weatherproof disconnect insulated terminal (85260) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com

and this - 30 amps i way over kill. if you find a cheaper one similar like the amazon one then get that.

KC HiLiTES/30 Amps illuminated rocker switch (3116) | Rocker Switch | AutoZone.com

Last edited by 600k2; May 17, 2011 at 09:31 AM..
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May 17, 2011, 09:22 AM

BUGMAN'S GSXR WEBSITE

Also outside of the switch, what do you think is going on with your FI? I have a hunch b/c I think I've been down this path before. I was thinking about installing a Dealer Mode switch, but I just rode the bike until I got the error light, went home, took off front seat with bike running and then I switched it to dealer mode (the issue was I only have one key and couldn't go through tail with bike running)....

Anyways, I did all of that and I for "F00" which means NO CODE....so I'm still wondering why I'm getting the light/error. It was suggested by a member here that I should get the bike hooked up to an Official Suzuki Diagnostic to pull ALL codes...even the cleared ones in the ECU's history. I have yet had an opportunity to do that.


What do you value more? Life or Image?

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May 17, 2011, 09:37 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by TalkofDC View Post
BUGMAN'S GSXR WEBSITE

Also outside of the switch, what do you think is going on with your FI? I have a hunch b/c I think I've been down this path before. I was thinking about installing a Dealer Mode switch, but I just rode the bike until I got the error light, went home, took off front seat with bike running and then I switched it to dealer mode (the issue was I only have one key and couldn't go through tail with bike running)....

Anyways, I did all of that and I for "F00" which means NO CODE....so I'm still wondering why I'm getting the light/error. It was suggested by a member here that I should get the bike hooked up to an Official Suzuki Diagnostic to pull ALL codes...even the cleared ones in the ECU's history. I have yet had an opportunity to do that.
Tatyfool gave me the Bugman website which is pretty helpful. But thank you.

My red light, the "CHEC", and the FI flash on occaison. All of these are intermittent. The bike does get hot so I know the FI flashes for that. As far as performance mods the bike only has a scorpion slip-on. That was never mapped to the ECU. I replaced with a new oem air filter a month ago but these occured ever since I purchased the bike in February. I'm the fourth owner (its a k6 600 w 9,800 mi) so am weary what maintenance was done previously and how it was ridden. The bike could be fine, who knows?! I love it. It starts right up (I have a battery trickle charger hooked up) and doesn't have any issues with the engine that I've seen. I've yet to challenge the bike or even go higher than 10k rpms.

You are probably right though. I should probably just stick a wire in there and pull the code before I go off and do this mod. I just have read that these bikes give error codes quite frequently which will bother me.

Last edited by boarder277; May 17, 2011 at 10:38 AM.. Reason: edit highlighted in italics
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May 17, 2011, 10:21 AM

^ I guess the mod would be worth it if you had multiple things going on with the bike and you never knew which code was being displayed....but for an isolated incident, I would just ride the bike until an error showed up and then temporarily jump the pins to put the bike in dealer mode...

IMO the convenience of the switch's function does not overide the install itself (not that it's hard or time consuming...but I could take that 15-30 mins and clean my chain or change my oil.)


What do you value more? Life or Image?

"I don't ride, I usually just sit around wearing a tshirt and my icon back protector and talk shit about anyone who does not have a liter bike. That's how you can pick me out of a crowd. I also wear a red tophat."
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May 17, 2011, 10:31 AM

^Ya all I can do at this point is assume.

But how do I even know if it's isolated? >> I need to ride around, it comes on, jump the pins and get the code. Then I can go from there. I'm saying then if it comes on more frequently, like it has been since I got it...then the switch might be worth it. I wonder how accurate and precise these flag systems are.

I don't mind working on my bike. I enjoy it actually. It's MY time. I'm learning a TON and I have nothing else to do... It's also making me more confident to do maint. type work on my car.
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May 17, 2011, 11:31 AM

Quote:
It's also making me more confident to do maint. type work on my car.
so true...lol... so very true. I used to be a nervous wreck working on my bike (probably still am) but it definitely made me buy tools, and I'm more inclined to research to determine IF I can work on the issue or if I need to take it to a shop...versus...heading straight to the shop.


What do you value more? Life or Image?

"I don't ride, I usually just sit around wearing a tshirt and my icon back protector and talk shit about anyone who does not have a liter bike. That's how you can pick me out of a crowd. I also wear a red tophat."
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May 17, 2011, 12:12 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by TalkofDC View Post
so true...lol... so very true. I used to be a nervous wreck working on my bike (probably still am) but it definitely made me buy tools, and I'm more inclined to research to determine IF I can work on the issue or if I need to take it to a shop...versus...heading straight to the shop.
yup, yup, and yup! what else would i do during a weekday, day?!

the tools i have now, i started buying because of the bike, and they are my first tools. i had ones given to me but never have i ever purchased before.
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May 17, 2011, 10:05 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by windblown View Post
Given the nature of your questions and since you will be playing with circuitry that involves the ECU I would advise against this little project.

Having said that:

1) Any decent switch is going to provide you with a load rating. I would think the load on the switch would be extremely small, therefore almost any would do. If you can't decipher what numbers on the switch mean and how how it applies to the project I recomend re-reading my first sentence.

2) Wire size: Like switches and most things electrical, it is sized by load rating. What is the load?

3) Yes, you want insulated wire. Any wire that is not bare metal is insulated with a sheath of some sort. All insulated wire of a given guage is not created equal. An 18guage wire can be single stand, or multi-strand, and the number of strands vary as well. The material used for the insulating sheath varies too, depending on application and how critical it is.

If you are bound and determined to proceed I would recomend the following. Get a decent multi-meter so you know what you are working with. Buy a couple of Radio-shacks beginning electrical circuitry books, they will explain all sorts of things about basic circuitry that will help you get a better understanding of these types of projects before you attach something wrong and let the smoke out of an expensive part.
thanks for the response man. if i end up doing this project myself i will def buy those books so i have some idea of the basics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 600k2 View Post
i think you are over thinking this.

get a switch, make sure it is not a momentary switch...like your start button

Amazon.com: Pilot LED Round Rocker Switch - Green: Home Improvement


there are 3 male spades on the bottom, 2 of them are connected when the switch is on and disconnected when the switch is off. the third one does the LED light. forget about the LED light.

cut your 2 dealer mode wires from the connector and then use some wire butt connectors to lengthen the wires so they will reach where the switch will be mounted. use 18g or 20g wire.

use female spades on the wires to the switch

drill a hole and pop the switch in and then connect the wiring



go to autozone

get this

Painless Wiring/25 ft. 18 gauge black extreme condition electrical wire (71866) | Electrical Wire | AutoZone.com

these

Dorman/Conduct-Tite 50 pcs. 22-18 gauge red weatherproof butt connector (85244) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com

these in 22-18 gauge

Dorman/Conduct-Tite 1/4 in. 16-14 gauge blue female weatherproof disconnect insulated terminal (85260) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com

and this - 30 amps i way over kill. if you find a cheaper one similar like the amazon one then get that.

KC HiLiTES/30 Amps illuminated rocker switch (3116) | Rocker Switch | AutoZone.com
thank you as well for your long and thorough response. as i mentioned to talkofdc, im going to pull the code with a wire/paperclip the next time i start the bike and see what it says then go from there.

Last edited by boarder277; May 17, 2011 at 10:08 PM..
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May 21, 2011, 10:40 PM

well im glad i didnt decide to do the switch because there isnt much wire length in there to work with the wires and splice them. the paper clip worked just fine....

so i have code C46. assume that i need the set valve adjusted?? man this is going to suck with my lack of knowledge in this area.

Last edited by boarder277; May 21, 2011 at 11:28 PM..
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May 21, 2011, 11:20 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by boarder277 View Post
well im glad i didnt decide to do the switch because there isnt much wire length in there to work with the wires and splice them. the paper clip worked just fine....

so i have code C46. assume that i need the set valve adjusted?? man this is going to be suck with my lack of knowledge in this area.

What year is your bike? I removed my set valve.



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May 21, 2011, 11:38 PM

^thanks for the video taty...

my bike is one yr older than your gsxr, so 2006. so this video applies.

did you have the c46 code too? is that why you removed yours? appears that once you remove this you wont get the c46 code anymore. But the FI system will still work and detect other issues with the bike, even though you remove that Pin #30, correct? im wondering why im getting this code in the first place. i do have a slip-on exhaust that was never dialed in to the ecu.
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May 22, 2011, 12:28 AM

The slip on has nothing to do with the C46 code coming up. If you look around the SET valve is notorious for it's problems and faults. Mine went bad when I first started riding so I took it to a shop and they just told me to remove it. The guy was honest enough to tell me that even if I replaced it with a new one, it would only be a matter of time before it fails, so why waste the money. The servo that opens and closes the valve goes bad.

The wire that is mentioned to remove/cut will only turn off the FI light for the C46 code. It will not affect anything else.
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May 22, 2011, 03:26 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by legendindisguise View Post
The slip on has nothing to do with the C46 code coming up. If you look around the SET valve is notorious for it's problems and faults. Mine went bad when I first started riding so I took it to a shop and they just told me to remove it. The guy was honest enough to tell me that even if I replaced it with a new one, it would only be a matter of time before it fails, so why waste the money. The servo that opens and closes the valve goes bad.

The wire that is mentioned to remove/cut will only turn off the FI light for the C46 code. It will not affect anything else.
so im guessing you removed yours? i saw in the video tatyfool posted that you need to make sure the thing in the exhaust pipe is open/horizontal so that air can pass through. so will that piece stay like that and not move closed after you remove that stuff?
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