DCSportbikes.net  
» Help Support .NET!
DCSportbikes Premier Membership for 25$ per year. Discounts! Click here for full information.

Now available in the .NET Shop:



Get your DCSBN Gear!
» Shoutbox
Sorry, only registered users have the ability to use our real-time shoutbox to chat with other members.

Register now, it's free!
» Online Users: 520
2 members and 518 guests
beatle, Leoallafila
Most users ever online was 4,519, September 2, 2015 at 03:26 AM.
Go Back   DCSportbikes.net > Sportbike Operation > Tech Questions

Reply
LinkBack Thread Tools
electrical system questions
Unread
  (#1)
Signed up for Track Days!
 
keebler's Avatar
 
Posts: 259
Join Date: February 20, 2009
Location: Pasadena, Md
Question electrical system questions - March 15, 2009, 02:53 PM

1. anyone know what spark plug wires should be reading at when ohm tested?

i used to know the spec for automotive (which was ___ per foot of cable)

**testing and examining the electrical components on my bike just so i dont end up with something stupid to replace that i could of done while already apart...bike has sat for a while im sure. 9-10K on bike--97 ninja 600r.

2. anyone know if battery plates (internal cell plates) go bad?

curiousity is all. i am planning to attempt to drain the acid out of the battery replace with fresh acid and put it on a trickle charge to see if the battery slowly comes back...

the less i spend and sooner its running ill be so happy...jw, worth a try.

ive already checked the wiring some, and the connections...which all seem good so far. ive checked the coils with DMM by means of ohm test and primary windings are good, secondarys idk yet. checked them with plug wires attached so either bad secondarys or bad wires....as resistance is high.

plug wire ends that attach to plug smell moldy w/ mild rust, and mild rust on plug hex's otherwise plug threads looked ok. forgot to check electrodes...not like it matters as i will replace the plugs.

3. any way to check ignitor without running the bike...like any way to ohm test or such?...i guess aside form checking to see if unit has internal short to case/gorund....maybe.

4. any way to check rectifier without running the bike?....i guess aside form checking to see if unit has internal short to case/gorund....maybe

again ive yet to get the bike running as i need to get some money to buy the tank, ignition switch, carb rebuild kits, and such other petty things like 1 or 2 cables.

5. im new to bikes, and my coworker said something to the nature of bikes having clutch switch possibly, kickstand switch....true?

***to start....key on, engine switched to run, hit start switch,.....

***what else....trans in neutral? clutch lever pulled? kickstand up?
  Facebook Page Send a message via AIM to Send a message via AIM to keebler  
Reply With Quote
Unread
  (#2)
GP Champ
 
Posts: 2,038
Join Date: January 22, 2009
Location: Swanton, MD
March 15, 2009, 10:16 PM

1- The spark plug wires are part of the secondary resitance test for the coil. If you do this test with the plug caps installed you will get a very high resistance reading because the plug caps can be 3k+ in resistance and the secondary consist of more and tighter ciols of the wire. I can get you the factory spec tomorrow from work if you like.
2- Battery plates can sulfate or short to one another. Dont drain the acid just top off the battery with distilled water and see if it will take a charge.
3- Some of the older kawasakis could have the ignitors checked by an authorized dealer with the kawasaki special tool but I have worked at 2 kawasaki shops and neither had this tool cause you would just test the few items in the ignition system and if they all passed then you replace the ignitor.
4- You can check the reg/rect by testing the diodes but I have tested many reg/rect and they test fine till you add more voltage and reqire the unit to work as if it was on the bike during operation. You can do this with a mega ohms tester but again its just easier to check and see if the unit is charging when running and if not test the stator and wires that make up the charging system and if they pass replace the reg/rect.
5-Most street bikes do have clutch switches and side stand switches. I actually cant think of the last street bike I have seen without both.
6- To start the engine with the kick stand down you need the tranny in neutral. Otherwise key on, engine switch to run, tranny in neutral or clutch pulled in, hit start switch.
  Send a message via AIM to  
Reply With Quote
Unread
  (#3)
Signed up for Track Days!
 
keebler's Avatar
 
Posts: 259
Join Date: February 20, 2009
Location: Pasadena, Md
March 15, 2009, 10:23 PM

i have a haynes manual...and primary spec is 2.5-3.5 i think while seconadary is 13.5K - 16.5K.....i had 2.9 on primaries....o they are good....secondaries with complete sparkplug wire assemblies came up at 24K and 13M....i need to get longer test wires so i can retest the secondaries w/o the plug wires on them.---correct??

and thank you very much redlevel for you help....

do please verify my thinking in this post too....please.


Quote:
Real gearheads know that you cant buy horsepower off an Autozone shelf. To play with the big boys, you've gotta pay.
-1997 Ninja 600R
  Facebook Page Send a message via AIM to Send a message via AIM to keebler  
Reply With Quote
Unread
  (#4)
GP Champ
 
Posts: 2,038
Join Date: January 22, 2009
Location: Swanton, MD
March 15, 2009, 10:40 PM

Going off the idea that your coils have removable wires and plug caps I would unscrew the plug caps and test them. Most of the time they are the actual problem. If they test good then pull the wire from the coils and campair the coil readings with each other to find the outcast and replace it or replace the wire thats giving you the problem.
  Send a message via AIM to  
Reply With Quote
Unread
  (#5)
Old rider, new member
 
EWill3rd's Avatar
 
Posts: 43
Join Date: October 4, 2008
Location: Seven Corners VA
March 16, 2009, 06:51 AM

1. For any multi cylinder engine just compare them to eachother. Ohm testing is a horrible way to check plug wires anyway. What is the issue here?

2. Just replace the battery. If it has fluid in it, putting 'fresh acid' in will do nothing but give you hazmat to deal with. Top it off with distilled water and trickle charge it for as long as you can stand. Otherwise it isn't worth the trouble, buy a new one. You don't want it to strand you somewhere and most lead/acid batteries aren't that expensive.

The rest would all make more sense if I knew what you were trying to fix, is this a:
Cranks but will not run
Will Not crank
Starts and runs poorly?????
Plus I am not sure exactly what kind of setup that year/model might have.
  Send a message via AIM to Send a message via MSN to EWill3rd  
Reply With Quote
Unread
  (#6)
Signed up for Track Days!
 
keebler's Avatar
 
Posts: 259
Join Date: February 20, 2009
Location: Pasadena, Md
March 16, 2009, 08:46 AM

1997 ninja 600r/zx600c

does not run, definitely neds gas tank and ignition switch...just dong general chk over while not running on the ignition system prior to buying the tank...trying to avoid a future problem, bike sat for a while im sure. only ahs 9-10k miles on it.


Quote:
Real gearheads know that you cant buy horsepower off an Autozone shelf. To play with the big boys, you've gotta pay.
-1997 Ninja 600R
  Facebook Page Send a message via AIM to Send a message via AIM to keebler  
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com
All logos and trademarks in this site are property of their respective owner. The comments are property of their posters, all the rest 2002-2010 by DCSportbikes.net. DCSportbikes.net is owned by End of Time Studios, LLC.