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Engine Oil
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Question Engine Oil - September 22, 2008, 08:34 AM

Over the past year I have been using the Honda oil that is sold at a local bike dealer. (Coleman's) Additionally I get a new filter and washer and everything seems to be gravy when I do my oil change. This Sunday I wanted to grab some oil and a few questions arose that I did not have an answer for. Since the shop was closed I went to Vienna Advance Auto and I asked them if they had the Honda or any other motorcycle oil that would work. They seemed baffled and walked to the shelf and basically pointed at anything that said motorcycle. I was not comfortable with this and decided to take a look for my self. I hit up another store and then another all basically the same however I must mention that the guys at the Bradlick Advanced Auto were IDIOTS and paid no attention to customers what so ever. I was even more discouraged and the selection was so limited I decided it was better just to wait.

My questions.

Should I just stick to changes 2,500 - 3,000 miles with the Honda oil?

Is the synthetic that is made for bikes actually any better then the synthetic produced for cars?

I read that although many products claim to clutch safe or molly free they actually have no been proven to be any better of protectant. I also read that the viscosity break down generally occurs in the first 800-1000 miles. I find the the oil turns fairly dark within 500 miles of use with my 07 GSXR 1000.

Is the blend or full synthetic the better buy?

Should I run synthetic now that I am beyond 10,000 miles?

I have kept my oil changes frequent but with the winter coming I don't have the benefit of good weather to do the changes outdoors and I don't have a garage of my own. I'm wondering what will get me through the winter best.

Should the oil I run this winter be the same weight that I run normally?

I'd appreciate any insight you guys and gals have.

Some of the things I will be researching while I anticipate your feedback.


What is the best bang for the buck when it comes to oil and filters?

Will using the better products at a higher cost actually protect my bikes engine better or extend the life of the motor?

Should the engine oil (if affordable) be changed more closely to the point at which the viscosity break down occurs?

Where locally can these oils be purchased at a discount (especially if bought in volume?)

Recommendations on filters for my model?


also a thanks to Johnny from Devil Dawg for immediately taking my call on a Sunday and offering to help me out.


2006 Yamaha R6
2008 Zuma YW50


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Last edited by Lucky; September 22, 2008 at 08:38 AM..
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September 22, 2008, 08:40 AM

Advanced auto people are normally retarded and have little car knowledge.

Synthetic motor oil is fine.
I run mobile 1 most of the time for about 3-5 thousand miles with out any problems. (I never use conventional oil)

For summer months if say you use a 10w30 weight oil, then in the winter I would switch to a 5w30 weight oil, which is a little nicer to your pump on start up and provides sufficient protection. (weights are for example only not what you should necessarily be using)


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September 22, 2008, 08:42 AM

I just went through the same thing - went to a bunch of shops in Frederick and the guys at Autozone and a few other places had no idea what they were talking about. Kept trying to sell me car oil or anything with a motorcycle on it.

First off, people will hate you for starting a thread about oil, LOL, because there are a million different opinions.

What I discovered: Make sure your oil is JASO-MA certified (it will say on the bottle)

And what type of weight do you normally run? You can use 10W-40 in both hot and cold weather.


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September 22, 2008, 09:38 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by sara
Make sure your oil is JASO-MA certified (it will say on the bottle)
+1

Oil blends differ between cars & bikes. The important difference is that (most) motorcycles have a wet clutch and the friction modifiers found in (most) automotive oils can impregnate the clutch discs and make them slip.

Having said all .... I have had no problems with Mobil 1 15-50 in my bikes and I don't think it's JASO-MA rated. But to be safe you always want to see the JASO-MA rating on oil you put in your bike.

As far as all the rest. That's a big old bag of worms that will be debated long after we have all become word food. Here's my take:

Oil Type: Dyno versus synth - Whatever floats your boat. I prefer synth but acknowledge it could be a waste of money.

Change interval: Follow manufactures recomended shedule at a minimum. If your oil looks like crap when you change it and you're following the manufactures schedule then change it more often.

Filters: If you use cheap filters then change it with every oil change. If you use high quality filters you can change it every other change IMHO as long as the oil you drain still looks good. I prefer using high quality filters.

Not saying my way is right. It's just one way to skin the cat.
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September 22, 2008, 09:40 AM

The biggest concern with using synthetics is clutch slippage. If your clutch slips it will reduce your power. Synthetics for motorcycles should be formulated to prevent this problem, but I prefer to use natural oils (Repsol, lately) instead. If you're performing frequent oil changes, you can save some money using the natural oils. If you're an aggresive rider, though, synthetics may offer you more protection.

I've changed my oil in my FZ6 each 4K miles, and both times the oil wasn't very dark and retained some of its translucence, which impressed me. BamBam told me that an engine that is running properly won't dirty the oil much. Are you due for an engine tune-up?


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September 22, 2008, 11:06 AM

I go with repsol synthetic 10w40 and has all the required specs


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September 22, 2008, 11:09 AM

Refer to the manual for viscosity/ temp range, but 10/40 should be fine unless you ride <30* out. My Kawi says 7500 miles (I think) for oill change, but I do it every 3k. Syn/ dino is up to you, but as Sara said, stick to JASO. Below is a quote from my post to a similar question: "
http://www.bikenomads.com/wiki/index...r_oil_in_bikes

"Due to its specific structure, a 4-stroke motorcycle requires a special kind of lubricant that can lubricates the engine moving parts, the gear box and the wet clutch. Therefore, people should select specific lubricants for their motorbikes to perform and to last. The solution is to use lubricants meeting JASO MA standard. JASO MA is the only set of standards for lubricant that is accepted by Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha"
http://www.bp.com.vn/html/English/BPPetcoLUBEJasa.htm "


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September 22, 2008, 11:17 AM

REPSOL FTW!!!
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September 22, 2008, 12:25 PM

Do a search. Find the studies with hard evidence, there are several. Most show M1 to have less viscostiy break down than some of the big name MC specific oils.

Don't ever start another oil thread.
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September 22, 2008, 01:23 PM

http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/motoroil.htm

I have been researching still on my own and I think the thread is a good way to find solid scoop on personal experiences with all types of oil.

The link above I have found to be a little dated but rather informative.


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September 22, 2008, 01:28 PM

Here is a thread I started a few years back

It has some good info

OIL AND OIL FILTERS
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September 22, 2008, 01:30 PM

Lucky as space said search the site, there must be at least 50 oil threads this year.

Consensus save your $ use Shell Rotella full syn, and use purolator filters.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo...tml#OilFilters


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September 22, 2008, 01:34 PM



Suzuki Race teams dont use it for no reason......
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September 22, 2008, 01:45 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by GiixerFiend7

Suzuki Race teams dont use it for no reason......
Maybe its because they offered the best deal to get a sticker on the bikes.
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September 22, 2008, 01:48 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Space
Maybe its because they offered the best deal to get a sticker on the bikes.
True, but they are wise about their oil choices. Motul is a kickass oil, but doesn't last and needs frequent changing. These are things that need to be considered when changing the oil in your driver. Yosh changes oil thoughout the weekend, not after 2-3k miles. Unless it's free, it's a waste of money.


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