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keyless ignition
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keyless ignition - March 24, 2008, 08:42 PM

I have a 03 r6 track bike that i misplace the keys to does anyone on here know how to set up keyless ignition???
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Emm Teh
 
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March 25, 2008, 07:10 AM

There should only be 4 wires going into the ignition... figure which 2 are for power and which are for the starter. Wire up a toggle switch for the power and a push button for the starter? You could use a 3 way switch too?


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March 25, 2008, 07:28 AM

Be carefull. I replaced my triple tree and threw away the switch. Was in a hurry when I wired it up and now I've got no spark.
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March 25, 2008, 09:06 AM

I've read that you need to add a resistor in the right place to make it work. Get a wiring diagram.


**Edit - found a write up for a gixxer to give you an idea of what might be involved.

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25840

Last edited by rddy; March 25, 2008 at 09:23 AM..
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March 25, 2008, 12:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rddy
I've read that you need to add a resistor in the right place to make it work. Get a wiring diagram.


**Edit - found a write up for a gixxer to give you an idea of what might be involved.

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25840
Bam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Printing it out now. Thanks.
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March 25, 2008, 02:13 PM

You still have to open the gas tank. Have you replaced the stock cap?


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March 25, 2008, 02:16 PM

Thanks guys
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March 25, 2008, 02:18 PM

no i haven't replaced the gas tank but i do have a spare so now i need to purchase a vortex gas lid!!!!
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March 25, 2008, 02:18 PM

Dam one thing after another !!!!!!
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B
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March 25, 2008, 02:26 PM

Directions reposted here from Gixxer.com to ensure availibility.

Parts:

100 Ohm Resistor, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance: Radio Shack part 271-1108
18-20 Gauge Wire (two different colors)
Electrical Tape

I soldered all of the connections. If you would rather use connectors and
a crimping tool, you will need to have a supply on hand. I am not sure how
one would install the resistor with out a soldering iron.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is the legend for the various wires involved in the re-wiring:

Wire Colors and Functions (Right Handle Switch (Kill Switch)):

O/B (Orange with Black Tracer) -- Kill Switch
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) --

Wire Colors and Functions (Key Switch):

Br (Brown) - Tail Light
B/W (Black with White Tracer) - Ground
Gr (Gray) - Instrument Cluster Light and Horn
O (Orange) - Ignition
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) - Cooling Fan
O/Y (Orange with Yellow Tracer) - ECU
R (Red) - Power (+12v)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Removal:

The first step is to remove the two wiring harnesses that will be
modified: the key switch and the right clip-on switch cluster. Find and
disconnect the connectors that connect these harnesses to the main wiring
harness. The key switch has two connectors along the right frame spar.
The right clip-on switch cluster has a connector just in front of the
radiator on the right side. You will have to open some zip ties and a
clamp to get the harnesses free.

To remove the key switch, you will have to take off the top triple clamp
and remove the two tamper resistant Torx bolts. I do not have the correct
Torx bits so I drilled the heads of the bolts off. To remove the right
clip-on switch cluster, you will need to disconnect the throttle cables
from the cluster.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Key Switch Harness Modification:

This one is actually quite simple. Start by cutting all the wires 2" from
the main connector. Cut the Br and Gr wires at the connector so they are
slightly recessed since they will not be used. Cut the O/Y and B/W wires
to 1" in length and solder a lead of the 100 Ohm resistor to each wire.
Insulate the wires and resistor with Electrical tape to keep the O/Y and
B/W wires and resistor leads from touching. Leave the R and O wires at 2"
for now.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Right Clip-on Switch Cluster Harness Modification:

The goal here is to re-wire this harness so the circuit the kill switch
normally controls is always connected (run) and to have two wires coming
out of the harness connected to the kill switch.

In the run position, the kill switch completes a circuit between the O/B
and O/W wires. The O/W wire actually connects to the starter button and
the kill switch. A "Y" is formed about 4 inches down the wiring harness
from the switch. Cut into the sheath and find where the O/W wire forms the
"Y" and cut the O/W wire that leads to the kill switch. Cut the O/B wire
at the same point in the harness and solder it to the O/W running to the
Starter Switch. Run a pair of wires through the sheath and connect them to
the O/W and and O/B wires from the kill switch. Leave about 3" of wire
hanging out from the sheath at the connector end. Use electrical tape to
insulate all of the connections and to cover the cut in the sheath.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Putting it All Together:

Take the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors and plug them into the corresponding connectors on the main
wiring harness. Look at the R and O wires coming from the key switch
harness and the two unconnected wires coming from the right clip-on switch
cluster harness. If needed, cut the appropriate amount of wire from the
right clip-on switch cluster harness to allow for an uncluttered
connection.

Unplug the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors. Connect the R wire from the key switch harness to an
unconnected wire from the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Connect
the O wire from the key switch harness to the other unconnected wire from
the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Use electrical tape to insulate
all of the connections.

Put the kill switch in the "stop" position and plug the connectors in
again. Put the kill switch in the "run" position. The bike should power on
and be ready to start. Try starting the bike. If it starts, you are just
about done.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Finishing Up:

Reinstall the right clip-on switch cluster and clean up the wiring harness
connections.

That's it......


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  (#11)
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Join Date: April 4, 2003
Location: moon
March 25, 2008, 02:33 PM

99 cents. Just picked them up. Pray for fire tonight!

Also, I got this aluminum keyless cap cheap on eBay:

Quote:
Originally Posted by gixrB
Directions reposted here from Gixxer.com to ensure availibility.

Parts:

100 Ohm Resistor, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance: Radio Shack part 271-1108
18-20 Gauge Wire (two different colors)
Electrical Tape

I soldered all of the connections. If you would rather use connectors and
a crimping tool, you will need to have a supply on hand. I am not sure how
one would install the resistor with out a soldering iron.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is the legend for the various wires involved in the re-wiring:

Wire Colors and Functions (Right Handle Switch (Kill Switch)):

O/B (Orange with Black Tracer) -- Kill Switch
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) --

Wire Colors and Functions (Key Switch):

Br (Brown) - Tail Light
B/W (Black with White Tracer) - Ground
Gr (Gray) - Instrument Cluster Light and Horn
O (Orange) - Ignition
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) - Cooling Fan
O/Y (Orange with Yellow Tracer) - ECU
R (Red) - Power (+12v)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Removal:

The first step is to remove the two wiring harnesses that will be
modified: the key switch and the right clip-on switch cluster. Find and
disconnect the connectors that connect these harnesses to the main wiring
harness. The key switch has two connectors along the right frame spar.
The right clip-on switch cluster has a connector just in front of the
radiator on the right side. You will have to open some zip ties and a
clamp to get the harnesses free.

To remove the key switch, you will have to take off the top triple clamp
and remove the two tamper resistant Torx bolts. I do not have the correct
Torx bits so I drilled the heads of the bolts off. To remove the right
clip-on switch cluster, you will need to disconnect the throttle cables
from the cluster.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Key Switch Harness Modification:

This one is actually quite simple. Start by cutting all the wires 2" from
the main connector. Cut the Br and Gr wires at the connector so they are
slightly recessed since they will not be used. Cut the O/Y and B/W wires
to 1" in length and solder a lead of the 100 Ohm resistor to each wire.
Insulate the wires and resistor with Electrical tape to keep the O/Y and
B/W wires and resistor leads from touching. Leave the R and O wires at 2"
for now.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Right Clip-on Switch Cluster Harness Modification:

The goal here is to re-wire this harness so the circuit the kill switch
normally controls is always connected (run) and to have two wires coming
out of the harness connected to the kill switch.

In the run position, the kill switch completes a circuit between the O/B
and O/W wires. The O/W wire actually connects to the starter button and
the kill switch. A "Y" is formed about 4 inches down the wiring harness
from the switch. Cut into the sheath and find where the O/W wire forms the
"Y" and cut the O/W wire that leads to the kill switch. Cut the O/B wire
at the same point in the harness and solder it to the O/W running to the
Starter Switch. Run a pair of wires through the sheath and connect them to
the O/W and and O/B wires from the kill switch. Leave about 3" of wire
hanging out from the sheath at the connector end. Use electrical tape to
insulate all of the connections and to cover the cut in the sheath.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Putting it All Together:

Take the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors and plug them into the corresponding connectors on the main
wiring harness. Look at the R and O wires coming from the key switch
harness and the two unconnected wires coming from the right clip-on switch
cluster harness. If needed, cut the appropriate amount of wire from the
right clip-on switch cluster harness to allow for an uncluttered
connection.

Unplug the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors. Connect the R wire from the key switch harness to an
unconnected wire from the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Connect
the O wire from the key switch harness to the other unconnected wire from
the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Use electrical tape to insulate
all of the connections.

Put the kill switch in the "stop" position and plug the connectors in
again. Put the kill switch in the "run" position. The bike should power on
and be ready to start. Try starting the bike. If it starts, you are just
about done.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Finishing Up:

Reinstall the right clip-on switch cluster and clean up the wiring harness
connections.

That's it......
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March 25, 2008, 06:22 PM

Now is this the same for all make and models or this just the gsxr?????
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Firebreathing VTwin
 
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Location: Reno NV
March 25, 2008, 09:18 PM

I knew about the resistor from the Suzuki program at MMI, nothing is really noted in the manual. Its a theft deterrent measure, it'll keep you from just jumping the wires and push starting a bike. I do not recall anything like that in Honda's ignition switch (I only took 6 weeks of Honda electrical )
Didn't take Yamaha tho.
Take a look at the service manual, you DO have a service manual right? Check the specs for testing the ignition switch if there is a specific resistance range for the switch in the On postion, then you have a resistor in the switch if its low ohms, then no.


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Love the one you've got...
Cause you might get run over, or you might get shot.
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March 26, 2008, 07:16 AM

So last night I put on the resistor. Bam, bike fired up.
Thanks!
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March 26, 2008, 07:51 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by red t3d r1
Now is this the same for all make and models or this just the gsxr?????
I would guess that all bikes have a resistor of some sort for theft deterent purposes. I found a thread discussing a 929 and someone mentioned that the ignition has a "zeener diode" that serves the same purpose. I think he meant zener diode.

http://www.fireblades.org/forums/hon...uel-prime.html
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