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Need help: What chain to get?
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Need help: What chain to get? - March 23, 2008, 12:11 AM

hi guys,

I have a '94 CBR600 F2 and it's that time for me to swap out a chain. I've been told it should be an easy job to do, but I still don't know which tools I need to do it with and what chain I should get. The bike is jetted to something like a stage 1, mild enough. I would like to get a better performing chain over OEM if all possible.

My bike is still on the stock gears, so I think it's a 525?

Is there a good write up of just swapping out the chain? I was thinking of getting the bike serviced at a shop since it's already at 36,000 miles and it probably needs valve adjustments and all sorts of cleaning that I'm not familar with, so any help on this is glady appreciated.

TIA


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March 23, 2008, 12:28 AM

If you are going to do a chain swap change the sprockets as well. Putting a new chain on old sprockets will wear the chain down faster than normal without new sprockets. Replace as a set. I hear DID is good.


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March 23, 2008, 12:39 AM

hmmm, if that's the case, I'll just go ahead with thinking of taking apart the bike as needed.

yes, I was thinking of a DID chain, I just dont know the difference in their sizes and model type.


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March 23, 2008, 04:17 PM

At 36000 miles it is time for a new chain and sprockets -- half that distance is a reasonable chain life. The first of the numbers in the chain size, i.e. the 5 in a 520 chain, is the pitch, or distance between links, in 1/8 inches. #5 chain has a pitch of 5/8 inch. The second two numbers, i.e. 20 in this example, is the width of the chain in 1/8 inches, or a quarter of an inch for your OEM chain. 525 chain is 2.5/8 or 5/16 inch wide. You could put a 525 chain on 520 sprockets, but it is not a good idea because it will rattle around and eventually run off. 520 chain is lighter than 525 and, consequently, gives better acceleration performance, though you would probably see more difference by going to an aluminum rear sprocket than by choosing the lightest possible chain. DID is good chain. Be sure to get the sealed type (O or X ring) and a rivet type rather than clip type master link. You will need to borrow a chain tool to rivet the master link, but it is worth the bother as the clip links tend to be unreliable.
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March 23, 2008, 08:02 PM

Yes you need special tools to put the chain on if it is a rivit link. I would go with a DID and maybe have a shop do the service and look at your sprockets cause the rear might need replacement. If you are around Sterling,VA look up RnR. See my sig for the link.


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March 26, 2008, 03:12 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer
At 36000 miles it is time for a new chain and sprockets -- half that distance is a reasonable chain life. The first of the numbers in the chain size, i.e. the 5 in a 520 chain, is the pitch, or distance between links, in 1/8 inches. #5 chain has a pitch of 5/8 inch. The second two numbers, i.e. 20 in this example, is the width of the chain in 1/8 inches, or a quarter of an inch for your OEM chain. 525 chain is 2.5/8 or 5/16 inch wide. You could put a 525 chain on 520 sprockets, but it is not a good idea because it will rattle around and eventually run off. 520 chain is lighter than 525 and, consequently, gives better acceleration performance, though you would probably see more difference by going to an aluminum rear sprocket than by choosing the lightest possible chain. DID is good chain. Be sure to get the sealed type (O or X ring) and a rivet type rather than clip type master link. You will need to borrow a chain tool to rivet the master link, but it is worth the bother as the clip links tend to be unreliable.

thanks for the help! So really, I shouldnt be mis-matching the chain and sprocket sizes too far off as you said it's not a good idea since it will be sloppy.

i was quoted around $550 to get the service done ($250 was in parts) to get the chain installed and an oil change.. is that fair of a price from a shop to get the chain done?


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March 26, 2008, 03:15 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dodge131
Yes you need special tools to put the chain on if it is a rivit link. I would go with a DID and maybe have a shop do the service and look at your sprockets cause the rear might need replacement. If you are around Sterling,VA look up RnR. See my sig for the link.

i would say I would need both front and rear (i really see no point in doing something half-assed of changing the chain and knowing the fact that the sprockets are worn out as well. I might as well get them all done). I was quoted for about $250 for a DID o-ring chain and a set of sprockets.. labor I was looking at nearly $300 (quick inspect/look over the rest of the bike and an oil change as well), so in all it's about a $550 worth of a tab for me to swallow. Does that sound right?


Are there other chains that are worth looking into? What kind of sprockets are there?

thanks for the help everyone!


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March 26, 2008, 06:07 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cf3232
If you are going to do a chain swap change the sprockets as well. Putting a new chain on old sprockets will wear the chain down faster than normal without new sprockets. Replace as a set. I hear DID is good.
+1 btw here is also an alternative link for your bike chain and sproket needs..

http://www.kneedraggers.com/list/1.4.../CBR600F2/1994


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March 26, 2008, 06:26 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by xenonk
i would say I would need both front and rear (i really see no point in doing something half-assed of changing the chain and knowing the fact that the sprockets are worn out as well. I might as well get them all done). I was quoted for about $250 for a DID o-ring chain and a set of sprockets.. labor I was looking at nearly $300 (quick inspect/look over the rest of the bike and an oil change as well), so in all it's about a $550 worth of a tab for me to swallow. Does that sound right?


Are there other chains that are worth looking into? What kind of sprockets are there?

thanks for the help everyone!
You shouyld be able to find a chain and front and rear sprocket for $150 - $200 online. Check -> sportbiketrackgear.com $300 in labor is nutz (cut that in half)!
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March 26, 2008, 07:13 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer
At 36000 miles it is time for a new chain and sprockets -- half that distance is a reasonable chain life. The first of the numbers in the chain size, i.e. the 5 in a 520 chain, is the pitch, or distance between links, in 1/8 inches. #5 chain has a pitch of 5/8 inch. The second two numbers, i.e. 20 in this example, is the width of the chain in 1/8 inches, or a quarter of an inch for your OEM chain. 525 chain is 2.5/8 or 5/16 inch wide. You could put a 525 chain on 520 sprockets, but it is not a good idea because it will rattle around and eventually run off. 520 chain is lighter than 525 and, consequently, gives better acceleration performance, though you would probably see more difference by going to an aluminum rear sprocket than by choosing the lightest possible chain. DID is good chain. Be sure to get the sealed type (O or X ring) and a rivet type rather than clip type master link. You will need to borrow a chain tool to rivet the master link, but it is worth the bother as the clip links tend to be unreliable.
Exceptional post! for you!


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March 26, 2008, 08:37 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by CamDLux
You shouyld be able to find a chain and front and rear sprocket for $150 - $200 online. Check -> sportbiketrackgear.com $300 in labor is nutz (cut that in half)!
Well yes if you buy cheap chain and sprockets. A DID ERV cost about 220 and then a front about 30 and a rear about 65. yea 300 bucks for labor seams high but what all are you getting? Thats about 3 1/2 hours plus oil and filter so it seams near the ball park. Also if you buy a cheap rear sprocket it will wear out in about 2000 miles.


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March 26, 2008, 09:06 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dodge131
Well yes if you buy cheap chain and sprockets. A DID ERV cost about 220 and then a front about 30 and a rear about 65. yea 300 bucks for labor seams high but what all are you getting? Thats about 3 1/2 hours plus oil and filter so it seams near the ball park. Also if you buy a cheap rear sprocket it will wear out in about 2000 miles.
You are getting raped without lube if you pay $220 for a DID ERV chain.

Plus note he was getting that price quote for an o-ring chain which is NOT an ERV... so his quoted price is still high.

And how is it 3.5 hours in labor?! Unless I'm misreading what is being done here... chain+sprockets+oil change should be well under 3.5, especially for someone that knows what they're doing.

xenonk- what shop did you initially call for the $550 estimate?


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March 26, 2008, 09:20 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhouck
You are getting raped without lube if you pay $220 for a DID ERV chain.

Plus note he was getting that price quote for an o-ring chain which is NOT an ERV... so his quoted price is still high.

And how is it 3.5 hours in labor?! Unless I'm misreading what is being done here... chain+sprockets+oil change should be well under 3.5, especially for someone that knows what they're doing.

xenonk- what shop did you initially call for the $550 estimate?
Well a Erv from kneedraggers cost 174.00 so from a shop with a store front it will be more. Also to go over a bike and check it out plus chain, sprockets,oil and filter 550 sounds high? At 90 per hour thats about 2 hours of labor so not to bad. I misread his post cause it seams like it was 300 bucks just for labor which is high. But 550 for the whole job including parts and labor is about right.


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March 26, 2008, 09:35 AM

ok I did a quick online lookup for the parts only.
Your Shopping Cart: DID VM Series Premium X-Ring - 525VM2
Part Number: 13-DID-1
This item generally ships from KneeDraggers within 1 to 3 business days.
This item can be drop-shipped. Remove: Our Price: Quantity: Sub-Total: $ 129.00 $ 129.00 Vortex Racing Rear Sprocket - 520 Conversion - Honda CBR600 F2 - 44 Teeth - Fits Year(s): 1991 to 1998
Part Number: 500295
This item generally ships from KneeDraggers within 1 to 3 business days.
This item can be drop-shipped. Remove: Our Price: Quantity: Sub-Total: $ 46.00 $ 46.00 Vortex Racing Front Sprocket - 520 Conversion - Honda CBR600F2 - 15 - Fits Year(s): 1991 to 1998
Part Number: 623327
This item generally ships from KneeDraggers within 1 to 3 business days.
This item can be drop-shipped. Remove: Our Price: Quantity: Sub-Total: $ 30.45 $ 30.45 K&N Oil Filter - Honda CBR600F2 - Standard - Fits Year(s): 1991 to 1994
Part Number: 17-KN-19B
This item generally ships from KneeDraggers within 1 to 3 business days.
This item can be drop-shipped. Remove: Our Price: Quantity: Sub-Total: $ 12.00 $ 12.00 BMC Performance Air Filter - Honda CBR600F2 - Standard Filter - Fits Year(s): 1991 to 1994
Part Number: 600262
This item generally ships from KneeDraggers within 1 to 2 business days.
This item can be drop-shipped. Remove: Our Price: Quantity: Sub-Total: $ 51.00 $ 51.00 Repsol Moto 4T Racing Synthetic Oil - 10W40 - 4 Liter
Part Number: 615826
This item generally ships from KneeDraggers within 1 to 3 business days.
This item can be drop-shipped. Remove: Our Price: Quantity: Sub-Total: $ 45.60 $ 45.60 You will earn $6.28 in PuckBucks by placing this order today.
Item Sub-Total: $ 314.05

I included an air filter cause most likely he will need it. Now if you goto a store front it will be more and you will need to buy, borrow a chain tool which if the shop does the work you will not. Plus if the shop goes over the bike completely that will take at least 1/2 hour and they most likely will suggest more like a brake fluid flush and maybe coolant flush depending when the last time this was done. Now he could do all this work him self and save some money but if he doesn't have the knowledge nor tools he might miss something that will cause problems later. Remember this is just a rough estimate and when taking your bike to a shop you will get someone that knows more than the average person to look things over and suggest changes.


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March 26, 2008, 11:41 AM

Stop adding extra parts! Even buying expensive stuff (like Repsol oil) he's still getting MORE and BETTER parts than what he was quoted by the shop (which was $250 for only the bottom barrel o-ring chain and god knows what sprockets).

So imo he should buy that all himself and bring it to someone to install. Call Motoneko and have the stuff at your door in 1-2 days (and for even cheaper than Kneedraggers...)

And the "look over" part seems sketchy depending on what shop it is... I wouldn't trust just any place to make that worth the money. I want to make sure he's going somewhere trustworthy if he's going to be paying for that. And even if they recommend a brake fluid or coolant flush, that's going to be on top of the $550.

And for their quote, $250+~$50 for oil/filter (which I'm sure they weren't quoting him top of the line), would make $300... thus $250 in labor which is closer to THREE hours of labor than two. C'mon Dodge, even with the .5 hour "checkup", is it going to take 2.5 hours to change oil and swap 2 sprockets/chain WITH all the right tools/know-how? If he was doing it himself and had never done it before then maybe...



Disclaimer: I'm a cheap bastard and loathe paying anyone to do anything so take what I have to do with a grain of salt


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