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Change your brake fluid
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Derpentine Dealer
 
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Change your brake fluid - July 2, 2007, 07:36 AM

Here's what came out of my system last night (see photo). I got the bike early this spring and finally got around to flushing the brake systems and hydrolic clutch. Looks like something from the spit cup!!!

Seriously, I'm guessing the fluid was never changed by previous owners in the 10 years the bike's been around. Tip: flush and replace your hydrolic brake and clutch fluids every now and then. It's NOT supposed to look like rotten maple syrup.

Oh, and watch your pads too. I rode about one or two too many rides on my rear pads. Fortunately the rotors weren't screwed. This one's all on me--embarrassing.
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File Type: jpg BrakeFluid.JPG (147.8 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg ShotRearPads.JPG (106.9 KB, 47 views)


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July 2, 2007, 07:43 AM

looks like you got your moneys worth out of those brake pads.


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July 2, 2007, 07:44 AM

The guy that does all the work on my bikes is engaged to a young lady that flushes my brake fluid every time we put a bike on the stand....so nice!


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July 2, 2007, 07:44 AM

that looks like a Yoohoo. umm aren't them metal pieces supposed to have pads on them?


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July 2, 2007, 07:46 AM

You'd be surprised how many bikes are riding around like that, or worse.
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July 2, 2007, 07:51 AM

For those people that don't ride everyday you should check this kinda stuff before each ride. For those that do ride alot check them about every 2 weeks. I keep spare pads for my bikes just in case they sneak up on me and need to be replaced.


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July 2, 2007, 07:58 AM

Don't forget to get your fork oil changed as well

That does look horrible...hope you were able to flush the lines with no issues.


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Kat
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July 2, 2007, 09:23 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by deviousR6
Don't forget to get your fork oil changed as well
Fork oil? How often is that recommended? And is it something normal people can do?

Yay. Another thing I get to learn how to do.


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Red face July 2, 2007, 10:46 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by deviousR6
Don't forget to get your fork oil changed as well

That does look horrible...hope you were able to flush the lines with no issues.

Yeah, fork oil--on the to-do list. Also on the list of Italian Disease symptoms (Iaingottadamoney or whatever that was Vega diagnosed me with on Saturday).

I was able to flush until I got clear fluid running out of the calipers, and then I flushed some more. I was a flushing fiend. I'm going to do this in another couple of weeks with the notion that residual goo is going to get into the fluid I just pumped into the system. Then I should be alright until I get around to replacing the brake lines with braided hoses in the next several months.

Fortunately, I love wrenching on my bike. Nothing like a cool Sunday evening with a cold one (or two or three) and some tools. And I got it all back together in time to ride today!

So about the brake pads,... yeah. That shiny part up at the top of the arc? Not good. Fortunately, they had JUST started to touch. I knew they were thin so I was laying off the rear brake on Saturday. Went through that last little bit a lot quicker than I anticipated.

Let's see, next up on this bike will be...fork oil, actually. Oh, and maybe a conversion to synthetic motor oil. But before then, I have to redo the seals on my Bandit's forks. Got some 0.95 Kg/mm Race Tech springs to shove in too. Also have to replace the drive system and am looking for a 520 conversion for it.


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July 2, 2007, 10:50 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dodge131
I keep spare pads for my bikes just in case they sneak up on me and need to be replaced.
This is very smart. Pads can be replaced in less than an hour, once you know what you're doing and have all the stuff for it. I don't expect to go to the shop Saturday morning and get pads either. They usually need to be ordered. So having them on hand already is a great call!


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July 2, 2007, 10:53 AM

Need to replace my clutch and brake fluid. Anyone got any tips on how to accomplish this? Would be very helpful.


- Craig

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July 2, 2007, 12:57 PM

Well, since I just did front, rear, and clutch, and everything seems to be ok with no leaks, I guess I can give you my protocol. In my opinion, it's one of the easiest things to do on your bike, once you know what you're doing and have the right materials and tools. I'll post up with an edit this evening.


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July 2, 2007, 01:31 PM

Sweet that works for me. I will be waiting.....


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B
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July 2, 2007, 02:28 PM

Mmmm, yoohoo.


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July 17, 2007, 01:19 PM

It's a good idea to wear nitrile gloves to keep brake fluid off of your skin. Do your rear brake system first, since it is usually simpler. Or maybe the clutch (if hydrolic). You may have to remove some body plastics to gain access to the rear master cylinder. You need access to the master cylinder in order to add brake fluid to it. Wrap a rag or two around the master cylinder reservoir. Brake fluid removes paint so make sure to control all drips and spills with rags.

Next, locate the bleed valves (sometimes called bleeders or breathers) on each side of the caliper. See the attached schematic, #10. Affix a length of rubber tubing (clear is best) on this bleeder, place the free end of the tubing into a container that has some fresh brake fluid in it, plenty to keep the free end of the tubing submerged. I recommend a water bottle or something similar with a small opening. Poor in some brake fluid to fill to about half an inch. Crack open the bleed valve with an open-end wrench. You may want to use a box-end and just leave it on the bleed valve for quick closing. Once you have the valve open enough, brake fluid will start leaking into the tubing. Then you can pump the fluid out of the system with the brake lever. You may have to pump rapidly in the beginning to purge the air from your clear tubing. It is important to keep adding fluid to the reservoir, not letting air into the top of the system. Also avoid letting air into the bottom end via the clear tubing by keeping said tubing submerged in the extra fluid that you poored into the water bottle. Then just pump and replenish until you see clean fluid come out from the caliper. Then close up the bleeder while the brake lever is fully depressed, release the lever, carefully remove your tube to allow the rest of the fluid to drain into the bottle, and then fill the reservoir. You can remove the tubing mess-free by slowly pushing it downward off of the bleed valve nipple just enough to allow air to enter and break the seal. The fluid in the tubing will then poor out into the water bottle.

Now do the same thing on the other side of the caliper. This won't take as long since you have already flushed most of the system. Make sure to fill the reservoir to the proper level at the end. If you have done it right, you will not have air in the system, and your brakes will have a good, solid feel. If they feel spongy, then you have air in the system that needs to be purged by the above procedure. Make sure the rubber diaphragm in the cap of your master cylinder reservoirs is folded in correctly. Last, check for leaks and test ride before you go out railing. The procedure is basically the same for the clutch (if you have a hydrolic clutch) and front brakes. The front brakes have more bleed valves, obviously, and you should do each one. You should be able to do the whole thing on one pint or so of fluid.

Always dispose of used fluid properly at a waste facility that accepts such materials. It is really nasty stuff.

Have fun--I think it's one of the easiest and most satisfying maintenance task you can perform.
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File Type: gif brakeschematic.gif (14.9 KB, 9 views)


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Last edited by OrangeShirtDude; July 17, 2007 at 01:29 PM..
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