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DRZ 400sm help brakes, chain, sprockets.
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DRZ 400sm help brakes, chain, sprockets. - April 27, 2011, 09:58 AM

Okay I am officially lost..... my bike has 11-12k approx on it (I went down and smashed the old computer a while back and can't for the life of me remember what the odo was at)

But unfortunately being in the military now for the last 2-3 years I no longer have the ability to protect my bike from the elements. I have tightened the chain twice in the last two years and the rain has thwarted my efforts to keep my chain lubed so it's starting to make noise.


I was going to buy everything from wheeling cycle supply

But I haven't heard of

SRF chains

Sunstar sprockets

I was thinking of doing 15t/39-40t


I was also wondering about------

Superlite brand Steel sprockets

Kush sprockets, are they worth it?

And I need to find a decent replacement rear brake rotor , mine looks like a potato chip after smacking it into a log, it's ridable but I am uneasy about watching the caliper move side to side to follow the rotor.


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April 27, 2011, 10:06 AM

I'm running 14 and 43 but I have a larger rear wheel on mine.

Never heard of SRF chains, but I got a Sunstar rear sprocket a few weeks ago and have had no problems with it, they seem to get good reviews for a durable cheap steel sprocket. No experience with the Kush sprockets but I'd feel more comfortable with the cushioning in the hub itself since it's a more permanent part


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April 27, 2011, 10:14 AM

If you're running through chains because of wet weather, then I guess you could go with a cheap off brand and just replace more frequently. The Dizzer probably won't snap it so long as you keep an eye on it for excessive wear.

Sunstar and Superlite are reputable. Not sure about the others. I typically buy OEM, Renthal, or AFAM front and Renthal, AFAM, or Supersprox rear. For chains I pretty much always go with DID ERV3 and keep it well-oiled. Then again, I keep my bikes in a garage too so the expensive parts last longer.

For gearing, you'll get lost with all the tooth numbers so the best way to converse is in ratios. Divide rear by front, e.g. 42/16 = what's on my SMC. Bigger numbers are shorter gearing. Short means accelerate faster, lower top speed in each gear.


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April 27, 2011, 11:04 AM

I don't really have anything to add, but let me know if you need a chain tool.
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April 28, 2011, 10:25 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeShirtDude View Post
If you're running through chains because of wet weather, then I guess you could go with a cheap off brand and just replace more frequently. The Dizzer probably won't snap it so long as you keep an eye on it for excessive wear.

Sunstar and Superlite are reputable. Not sure about the others. I typically buy OEM, Renthal, or AFAM front and Renthal, AFAM, or Supersprox rear. For chains I pretty much always go with DID ERV3 and keep it well-oiled. Then again, I keep my bikes in a garage too so the expensive parts last longer.

For gearing, you'll get lost with all the tooth numbers so the best way to converse is in ratios. Divide rear by front, e.g. 42/16 = what's on my SMC. Bigger numbers are shorter gearing. Short means accelerate faster, lower top speed in each gear.
This would be my bikes first chain replacement at said mileage, I have no idea what people normally get out of these bikes. The only reason is some of the links are starting to get stiff and noisy despite lubing the crap out of it.


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April 28, 2011, 10:41 AM

I've never heard of SRF. I'd stick to DID/regina/name brand and make sure you get a O-ring/Xring chain, there is a huge difference in life.

There really is no need for the kush on a DRZ unless you just want it.

It's normally cheaper to buy a package than individual sprockets and chain.


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April 28, 2011, 11:00 AM

Forest from Wheeling will probably reply to ya on SMJ. He usually comes to the trackday as well. Great guy too, I can't imagine he's sell ya some junk.
It's "SFR" ya see them on EBay all the time.. Majority sez the side plates are soft and you'll have to adjust regularly. However it's all relative to what your doing.


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April 28, 2011, 11:07 AM

Thumpers are rough on final drive systems. You're more frequently into the gritty, muddy stuff, and the torque and higher amount of engine braking from the engine really punishes the chain and sprockets. I was a bit surprised at how quickly the OEM system died on my SMC. I think it crapped out at 14K miles or so, whereas I usually get upwards of 20K out of a system on the zx-10r (I take really good care of my chains) and change out front sprockets in between rear sprocket and chain replacements.


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April 28, 2011, 12:09 PM

+1 for good guy Forrest at Wheeling


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