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i been looking for a power commander and i ran into this
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Talking i been looking for a power commander and i ran into this - March 23, 2010, 05:10 AM

what you guys think has anyone done this before..because i was thinking of buying a power commander but if this can get done ill save myself like 300+ and ill like to pass the word on this..maybe someone here needs this

http://www.stuntlife.com/forums/priv...m&pmid=1540655

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r...commander.html

New Information! Please Read Again!

This is in reference to another post… I couldn’t have done this without the help of the member who posted the information which was on the R1 forum.

Origianl Post
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=14388

This was so much fun to do and in my opinion well worth it.

New info: If you have a Euro model, then you can skip the grounding of wire 29, move stright to adjusting the settings. Only US/Canada models need to ground wire 29.

You are going to have to ground wire 29 coming from you ECU, so first remove your seat and then you are going to need to locate the wiring harness leading into your computer


Disconnect it and look on the side where the wires lead into it. If you look closely you can locate the number “27” on the bottom area. The wire you are going to need to snip is wire “29”. Move over two wires and cut wire “29” give yourself enough room to reattach the ends when you finished.


Attach the end of the wire that comes from the harness to a ground, the negative battery terminal is right there so you might as well use it.


Now with a secure ground on wire "29" press both the "RESET" and "SELECT" while you turn the key to the “ON” position. Keeping them pressed for about 8 sec. you will see “DIAG” apprear.


Press “SELECT” once and you should see “CO”. If you don’t see “CO” turn your bike off and check your ground and try again. If you are sure your wire is grounded properly try cutting wire “27” and ground one of those two (wire “27” loops around and connects with wire “29” theoretically either one will work.)


Now with “CO” on the LCD screen press both “RESET” and “SELECT” for about 2 sec. and you should see “C1”


Use the “SELECT” or “REST” buttons to select the cylinder you wish to adjust. Then press both “SELECT” and “RESET” for about 2 sec. and you will see the current setting.


My settings from factoy were as follows:
C1: 0
C2: -6
C3: 0
C4: -10


I recommend writing these numbers down because this is what you are going to need to use as a starting point.

New Information

Now here’s the dilemma… no one can come up with proof as to what exactly these settings do… I have had people contact me telling me the following but when I asked them for documentation which they claim they read it from they couldn’t come through.

Theory 1: C1 is cylinder 1, C2 is cylinder 2 and so on; and the reason for the different numbers was due to a staggered pattern often seen in many carbureted bikes. You must adjust all 4 as needed.

Theory 2: C1 is cylinder 1, C2 is cylinder 2 and so on; and the reason for the different numbers was due to a staggered pattern often seen in many carbureted bikes. You must adjust all 4 as needed but only affect rpm range from 3k or less. Adjusting these settings will do nothing to help performance at higher rpms.

Theory 3:


Download this PDF

Download PDF

The information is on page 29 (25 if you go by document page numbers.)

Fuel injection Adjustment

Fuel injection amount can be adjusted in the following four ranges:

Code C1: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed

Code C2: Fuel amount injected at 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine speed

Code C3: Fuel amount injected at 25% to 90% of throttle opening

Code C4: Fuel amount injected at 90% or more of throttle opening

Before changing the settings, check the engine for its characteristics in normal condition. It is recommended that the settings be checked with an A/F measuring instrument.



Guidelines for setting

Code C1:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed:
This affects the idling stability and the feeling experienced during races. Too rich an air-fuel mixture may foul the spark plugs.

Code C2:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine
speed:
This affects the feeling experienced during engine braking and at initial
throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time while checking for any resulting changes.

Code C3:
At 25% to 90% of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at half throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time and check for any resulting changes.

Code C4:
At 90% or more of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle. Adjustment to too lean a mixture will lead to engine breakdown. Adjustment by checking the A/F is recommended. In particular, to adjust on the leaner side, make a change of 1 to 2% at a time while checking for the result. 12 to 13 is a targeted A/F.


To change the setting select the cylinder you want to adjust and then hold the “RESET” and “SELECT: buttons for two sec. this will display the current setting as shown above. Once you can see the current setting you can adjust using the “SELECT” button to go up in number or the “RESET” button to go down in number. Push both “SELECT” and “RESET” when you finished setting your new numbers.

Now turn your bike off and then reconnect your wire “29” back to itself using what ever you wish, and take it for a ride!

Also I am curious in the diffrence in numbers on the bikes... So if anyone does this post your year bike and your numbers. mine was an '04

© Copyright 2005 - R6Messagenet.com - All rights reserved. Last edited by ochlocracy : 12-26-2005 at 01:59 PM. Reason: New Information


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March 23, 2010, 08:29 AM

This is for most r6 from what I was reading


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March 23, 2010, 08:31 AM

Interesting. I can't comment on it because I'm not a Yamaha guy. Just be careful with stuff like this. Once you set your harness or ECU ablaze, that's it, game over.


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March 23, 2010, 08:39 AM

wtf is that...a manual power commander?? just buy a PC and tune it. As OrangeShirtDude said...don't go dicking around with your ECU or harness.
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March 23, 2010, 08:48 AM

Well I talk to some dude from Cali that I'm buying a swingarm from he is a tech at some shop n it's a tech for a race team


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March 23, 2010, 08:56 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital Playground View Post
wtf is that...a manual power commander?? just buy a PC and tune it. As OrangeShirtDude said...don't go dicking around with your ECU or harness.
+1, do it right. You don't wanna ghetto rig your ECM, thats asking for trouble.
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March 23, 2010, 09:10 AM

Where are the .Net techs at


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March 23, 2010, 09:18 AM

Pretty sure any Tech on a race team will be using a Power Commander (or the likes) to tune the race bikes.

This hackjob is not worth the savings of a measly $300.
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March 23, 2010, 09:30 AM

Well I'm gone try it and I'll
let yall no


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March 23, 2010, 09:38 AM

hahaha! I got about half way through and was like WTF? buy a power comander... worth every penny. This is so fucking technical and involved. Seriously... I rather be riding my perfectly dyno tuned bike all weekend, then fucking around with this and crossing my fingers.


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March 23, 2010, 09:45 AM

From everyone that has try it haven't said anything bad


http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r...commander.html


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March 23, 2010, 09:55 AM

Problem is you have no way to adjust your air fuel mix at different RPM's. Best thing you can do is smooth out your power curve and your going to need a PC and software to do it.
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March 23, 2010, 09:57 AM

Oh and a dyno and someone that knows what they are doing.
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March 23, 2010, 10:00 AM

Maybe I don't entirely understand whats going on here. I get that you are adjusting the air/fuel with out a power commander, but how do you know where to set it?
Is it just trial an error?
Do you do this on a dyno? I feel like unless you have free access to a dyno, you would be eating up more time and expenses than if you just had PwrCmdr.
Do you just ride it, and see if you can tell?
I feel like a mod like this with out dyno tuning, is 50% mental. It will feel like it worked, because you want to believe it worked. Like how after I change my oil and detail my bike it rides like the wind


Everytime you cook up...a little boy gets crushed by a bridge. -JTG40cal



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March 23, 2010, 10:02 AM

That adjustment method is so vague that it is almost worthless.


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