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Installing a Full Yosh System question
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Installing a Full Yosh System question - December 27, 2006, 06:18 PM

I will be installing my friends Full Yosh TRC system this weekend on his GSX-R k61000. My question is will the Exhaust Control Valve still be used in conjuction with the full system. I read somewhere that people took it off. Unless i read it wrong, shouldn't just replacing the stock system with the full Yosh system be straight forward without removing anything from the stock components?

Also

Will it be a problem if it is not running a PC3 right away? From what i understand it may run a bit lean, but not to bad for weekend riding. Are there any known issues in running a full system without the PC3 or is it best to just get it as soon as possible?
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December 27, 2006, 10:20 PM

The SET valve will be removed during the installation of the header and muffler. Some people go ahead and disable the servo motor that operates the cables leading to the SET valve. Some people also remove the cables after disabling the servo motor, but I recommend leaving them on, just in case you decide to go back to a stock system. You will have to drop the radiator for the install, so be very careful not to damage the gills when you put the new header in, since it has a different curve to it. I also recommend getting new exhaust gaskets for your installation. The installation itself is pretty straightforward, just follow the directions and you will be fine.

I don't recommend running the bike for long at all without doing a remap. Since you are not only increasing air flow through the system by mounting a more open type of exhaust, you lose the SET valve that provides the backpressure for low end response. The bike will feel like it is "lagging" when you get on the throttle. Can you run it? Sure you can. It'll run like absolute shit until you do a remap though. Hope that helps.


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December 28, 2006, 09:28 PM

Cool, from what i read on other threads they give me the same response as you. I will more then likely keep everything in play in the event of him needing to go back to stock. However how long can he go without a remap with the PC3? The only thing that is good about this is that it is wintertime so he won't be seeing any road anytime soon so this is probably a good time for him to save up and get a PC3
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December 28, 2006, 11:35 PM

I would recommend adjusting the a/f ratio is quickly as possible in order to avoid excess wear on your motor and associated components. Running to lean or too rich can heat up your engine more, werar out your plugs faster, and cause your exhaust components to deteriorate faster. I STRONGLY recommend installing both at the same time because if you put the bike back together, it's easy to put off finishing the job and thinking "oh just one more ride" and then before you know it, you've put 1000 miles on the bike that way and drastically increased the chances of damaging your bike.

Power Commanders are cool and all, but you might also want to explore the alternatives, like a Yoshimura unit or a Lockhart Phillips EFI controller. I know for a fact that the LP unit and the Power Commander unit are both made by Dynatek and essentially work the same way. The difference is that the LP and Yoshimura units are cheaper, so it's easier to save up for.

The bottom line is this: Don't run your bike lean or rich longer than you have to.


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December 29, 2006, 07:51 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by triplestack3
Power Commanders are cool and all, but you might also want to explore the alternatives, like a Yoshimura unit or a Lockhart Phillips EFI controller. I know for a fact that the LP unit and the Power Commander unit are both made by Dynatek and essentially work the same way. The difference is that the LP and Yoshimura units are cheaper, so it's easier to save up for.

The bottom line is this: Don't run your bike lean or rich longer than you have to.
There is a reason they are cheaper.... they don't have the same adjustibility. Same with Techclusion boxes.


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December 29, 2006, 02:59 PM

So best bet is to go with the PC3. Thankfully it is wintertime and he isn't riding anytime soon. I will inform him to get a PC3 asap. Thanks for the help guys!
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December 29, 2006, 05:03 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nudist
There is a reason they are cheaper.... they don't have the same adjustibility. Same with Techclusion boxes.
They have the same adjustability both the PC3 and LP M+ units have three potentiometers. The advantage to the M+ unit is that you don't have to hook it up to a computer to adjust you a/f ratio. Dynojet makes the Power Commander unit specifically for Parts Unlimited because they have an exclusive licensing agreement. Dynojet also owns and sells product under the Dynatek brand name for Lockhart Phillips. (I made a mistake about who owns who in my last post, it's actually the other way around). You are paying a premium to Parts Unlimited for the Power Commander name - it's that simple.


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Last edited by triplestack3; December 29, 2006 at 05:09 PM..
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December 31, 2006, 09:15 PM

My friend and I finally installed his exhaust,

We have one question, because the exhaust is brand new it has sort of a rattle sound however when on the throttle it is loud and sounds awesome. The rattle sound can be closely related to the sound of a Harley however just not as bubblier but at first sound it sounded as if it was rattling. Is this a normal sound or will it get smoother during idling? Being that the exhaust is brand new we suspect that it is still fairly new and not broken in yet.

When on full throttle it sounds loud and smooth however when it drops to idle it has a bubbly type sound that it sounds as if it is rattling but it is barely noticable. We just want to make sure this is normal.

Anyone want to fill in on this
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January 2, 2007, 12:34 PM

if your inline 4 japanese bike sounds like a Harley, you might have some serious problems

it's just a louder can, that's all...


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