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HOW-TO: Clean, fix & seal the inside of a tank.
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Post HOW-TO: Clean, fix & seal the inside of a tank. - March 17, 2006, 08:48 AM

Get the best kit for $32 and shipping.
http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/COMPLE...3/Default.aspx



Kit Contains

1-Quart (949mls) Marine Clean
1-Quart (949mls) Metal Ready
1-8 oz (236mls) Gas Tank Sealer
1- piece of repair cloth
1- 1” foam brush

SUGGESTED SUPPLEMENTAL SUPPLIES
• Latex Gloves
• Eye Protection
• Bucket and access to hot water and a garden hose
• Soft rags for wiping any chemical spills on the exterior of the tank
• Duct tape for sealing up openings in the tank (petcock hole, etc.)
• Work bench and/or soft padding to lay the tank on.
• Sandpaper

THESES DIRECTIONS ARE FOR STEEL TANKS ONLY
It is important to understand each product in your repair kit and
how it works because proper chemical interaction is essential for
achieving the best possible bond of the sealer to the inside of
the tank.

MARINE-CLEAN

This is the fi rst product you will use in the restoration of your
fuel or utility tank. Marine-Clean is a very powerful cleaner that
will break down gum and varnish deposits in your fuel tank, but
it will take time and often repeated application. A hot solution
of Marine-Clean is more effective than a cold solution. This
product is caustic and alkaline, and therefore your tank must be
neutralized and acidifi ed before gas tank sealer can be used
most effectively.

METAL-READY
Metal-Ready is an excellent prep for any coating or paint
product, and it’s essential that it be used before gas tank sealer
is applied to your tank. Metal-Ready is also the best rust
remover available, and it will dissolve all the rust and scale that
has formed in your tank. In instances of heavily built-up rust
formed over many years of neglect, the application and use of
Metal-Ready will enable your POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer to
chemically bond with whatever rust may remain in the tank and
form a permanent non-porous barrier against further rusting.
The primary job of Metal-Ready is to change the ph of your tank
from alkaline to acid, because coatings and paints stick much
better to acid-prepped metals. Be sure to rinse your tank
thoroughly with water afterward, neutralizing the surface.
TANK SEALER
The Tank Sealer in your kit is impervious to all conventional
automotive and diesel fuels. The most important thing to
remember is that your tank must be totally, completely, bone-dry
before the sealer can be poured into it.

DIRECTIONS
The preparation products, though non-toxic, should be handled
with latex gloves and eye protection.

1. PREPARATION: Empty tank of all fuel and rinse out with
clean water; remove fuel petcock, fl oat, fi lters, fi ttings, etc. Seal
up those openings in the tank with duct tape or cork to keep the
solutions in the tank when you clean, prep and seal the tank.

2. Outside painted surface of your tank should be protected
from preparation and sealing products with soft rags or other
suitable protection. Do this or your tank may have silver stuff on it later.

3. MARINE CLEAN: This product cleans varnish and rust
out of the tank. It leaves the metal surface alkaline and must be
treated with METAL READY to create an acidic surface for the
sealant to stick to. GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION SHOULD
BE WORN AT ALL TIMES.Mix your quart of MARINE CLEAN
with 1 quart of VERY WARM(not scalding hot) water.
Extremely hot water could melt the
adhesive on the duct tape. Note The higher temperature of the
water helps to activate the chemical process of the cleaner.
Pour the mixture into the tank, shake vigorously, and “roll” the
tank around to ensure the cleaner gets to all inside surfaces for
a minimum of 20 minutes. Now empty the solution from the tank
and rinse it out with water.

METAL READY:
This product makes the metal surface acidic
and removes rust, which is necessary for the sealer to effectively
bond to the surface. Pour the entire bottle of Metal Ready into the tank.

NOTE: Tank should be empty of rinsing water but does not have to be dry
before using Metal Ready.

Roll the tank around to ensure it coats all surfaces for a
minimum of 20 minutes. Place the tank in different positions
every half hour until the entire inside of the tank has been
treated with Metal Ready. Metal Ready should not be in the
tank longer than 2 hours. Rinse the tank thoroughly with
WARM– not scalding hot – water several times and drain it thoroughly
(low spots in tanks collect water so be sure to roll tank around
to get as much water out as possible).

In order to get the tank completely dry, you must blow warm air
into it because no tank will dry out on the inside by itself. The
only way to do this job is to use forced air. This can be
accomplished by using a hair dryer or hot air gun.

TANKS MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY INSIDE BEFORE SEALING.
THE SEALER WILL NOT STICK TO A DAMP OR WET TANK.
No shortcuts, please. If any moisture is present in the tank
when you pour in the sealer, IT WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY
and all your hard work will be wasted.

NOTE:
Once the metal is treated, it can fl ash rust. Though the
coating is designed to bond with any new fl ash rust, ideally
you’ll want to perform the forced air drying promptly after
draining the tank, and coat the tank with sealant soon after
drying it.

4. PATCHING – If you have any big exterior to interior leaks
we recommend performing this step before the sealant step.
There are several methods to fi x holes, but you must fi x them
BEFORE you put the POR- 15 Sealer into the tank. First,
remove all paint around area to be patched. Soak area with
Metal-Ready and keep wet for a minimum of 30 minutes; then
rinse with water and dry. Next, paint area with a liberal amount
of gas tank sealer and place a small piece of repair cloth
(provided) over the wet painted area. Now, paint sealer over
repair cloth from the center outward so that the painted cloth is
stretched evenly over repaired area. Let patched area dry for
96 hours.

If you aren’t aware of any holes, check to make sure you don’t
have new ones now that the chemicals have removed the rust
layer. The tank cleaning process may reveal new leaks in the
tank after removing rust and rust deposits from weakened and
thin tank walls. These areas are likely to be in the low points
and seams, especially if there are low tank areas below the
level of the petcock. These areas may have collected water
from tank condensation and water in your fuel and over time
may corrode the tank metal. Carefully check these areas for
leaks when you have fl uid in there (it will only be a very small
trickle if there is a pinhole leak.

5. SEALER: (open the POR-15 Sealer and stir until a
uniform color is achieved. CAUTION! Pour entire contents of
can into the tank. Roll the tank SLOWLY to ensure it coats the
insides uniformly. In tanks with seams, and with low areas
below the opening through which you are draining the sealant
(typically the petcock hole) the sealant will puddle. Take great
care to ensure you’ve drained out the excess. Any pooled
material can cause you trouble later.


IMPORTANT!
This is a very strong and durable coating. Take
care to immediately clean surfaces on which you may have
spilled the sealer. Any sealer remaining on painted surfaces
will become permanent. Any excess sealer must be cleaned from
screw hole threads for the petcock before it dries. A clean soft
rag can be twisted into the screw holes to clean the material out.
A Q-Tip is also effective for this job.

6. FINAL NOTES
Follow directions on sealer can and let cure for at least 96 hours
(4 days) before pouring in fuel.

CAUTION
: Left-over sealer may not be used again. Pour it back
into can, then add a little water, and let it sit until the next day
when the sealer is hardened in the can and can then be thrown
out with the garbage.

7. Drink beer.
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March 17, 2006, 11:23 AM

bookmarked for further reference
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May 14, 2008, 12:23 PM

Pics of a tank I did a few years ago.
Before:


After:
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May 14, 2008, 12:28 PM

What about plastic tanks?


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May 14, 2008, 12:30 PM

Take tank off. Turn upside down. Repeat. Just did that for for my Speed Triple.
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wheeel, estoy aqui?


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May 14, 2008, 12:37 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nunyadambusiness
Take tank off. Turn upside down. Repeat. Just did that for for my Speed Triple.
... You said steel tanks only!


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May 14, 2008, 05:43 PM

You said plastic.
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April 12, 2010, 04:35 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nunyadambusiness View Post
Get the best kit for $32 and shipping.
http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/COMPLE...3/Default.aspx



Kit Contains

1-Quart (949mls) Marine Clean
1-Quart (949mls) Metal Ready
1-8 oz (236mls) Gas Tank Sealer
1- piece of repair cloth
1- 1” foam brush

SUGGESTED SUPPLEMENTAL SUPPLIES
• Latex Gloves
• Eye Protection
• Bucket and access to hot water and a garden hose
• Soft rags for wiping any chemical spills on the exterior of the tank
• Duct tape for sealing up openings in the tank (petcock hole, etc.)
• Work bench and/or soft padding to lay the tank on.
• Sandpaper

The link above isn't valid anymore. Who knows of a similar package available? Am in need of one and I suck at the internet....

Thanks


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April 12, 2010, 04:43 PM

http://www.por15.com/CYCLE-TANK-REPA...ductinfo/CTRK/

Disregard. All hail google.


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April 12, 2010, 07:58 PM

Thread.....resurrection!!!!!!
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April 12, 2010, 08:27 PM

I needed this a few years ago, worked great, bike and tank are still rocking the casaba.

Backfiring, engine dies


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April 13, 2010, 01:09 AM

So will this work with a tank that doesn't work for now?? I have one for the track bike I'd like to "fix"


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April 13, 2010, 06:09 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by GsxrBulldog View Post
So will this work with a tank that doesn't work for now?? I have one for the track bike I'd like to "fix"
If you've got a tank with rust or pin holes, POR-15 will do the trick. For a modern bike, you would have to remove all the fuel pump stuff. I'll be at the spot Thursday if you want to chat. Bring the tank if it's off the bike.
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April 30, 2010, 11:27 PM

great info,really helped me out
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