» Help Support .NET!
DCSportbikes Premier Membership for 25$ per year. Discounts! Click here for full information.

Now available in the .NET Shop:

Get your DCSBN Gear!
» Shoutbox
Sorry, only registered users have the ability to use our real-time shoutbox to chat with other members.

Register now, it's free!
» Online Users: 171
5 members and 166 guests
2blueyam, CCS762ZX6, GRN96WS6, RRonin, tonetone
Most users ever online was 4,519, September 2, 2015 at 03:26 AM.
Go Back   DCSportbikes.net > Sportbike Operation > HOW-TOs

LinkBack Thread Tools
How To: wire up a garage door opener to your flashers
Site Admin
Posts: 9,771
Join Date: October 4, 2002
Location: NoVA
How To: wire up a garage door opener to your flashers - September 28, 2007, 04:06 PM

*** I copied this from SBN***

This is a simple, cheap mod that you'll love if you have a garage door opener.


It's $30 (I picked it up at the motorcycle show for $20) and it took about 30 minutes to wire up.

Tools required:

Butane Soldering Iron ($10 at Radio Shack)
Multimeter (also $10 at Radio Shack)
Wire stripper
Zip ties
Wrench for a chassis bolt (8mm on the Ducati Supersport)
Your push-button garage door opener

Your bike may require a different kit. There's another part number on that website - this 5pg2 model is the "Universal" one for most sportbikes.

Step 1:

First locate a good spot for the wiring harness. You'll need access to:

- power (a cable that comes on only when you turn the key on)
- switched power (headlight flashers or brake)
- somewhere to store/stick the circuit boards

I chose to install this all under my seat and use the brake instead of the headlight flashers.

Step 2:

Using a small eyeglass screwdriver, pry open the garage door opener to expose the circuit board.

You're going to use the multimeter in continuity mode (basically select any of the modes on the Ohm selections). Touch each prong of the multimeter to a couple of the points where the button hits when you press it.

I've marked my points with a red Sharpie - you can see the small marks in the picture.

When I touched these two points with the multimeter, my garage door opened.

Step 3:

Light up the butane soldering iron.

On the wiring harness, there is a black and white cable that are bonded together. These are for the points we marked in red on the opener circuit board.

Using a wire stripper, expose a small amount of wire in the black, and then the white wire.

Lightly coat each wire with a small amount of solder. Hold the exposed, coated wire to the point on the circuit board, and touch the point with the soldering iron lightly. Pull up quickly to solder them together.

Do the same for the second wire and point on the board.

After the solder has cooled for a bit, wrap the wires around the assembly once or twice, then cover in some plastic and electrical tape. This will serve two purposes:

- it will hold your soldering points better, as a slight tug on the cable won't loosen the joint
- it will protect the opener board from shorting out if it touches a bolt or other metal

Step 4:

Now we're ready to wire it to the bike.

Again we will use the multimeter to check the wiring on the bike. Unplug the brake harness, which is located under the seat.

Lay the negative terminal of the multimeter so that it's touching a bolt that's connected to your frame.

Turn the bike on (do not start it) and touch the positive terminal to each of the exposed connectors. Note which wire is "power". Mine was the yellow, center wire.

Now hold down the brake and again check the terminals to see which one has power while braking. Mine was the green, outside wire.

Step 5:

Your kit will include two wire-snap clips to connect the kit to your wiring harness.

Use one on the "power" line and connect it to the red wire on the kit.

Use the other on the "brake" line and connect it to the yellow wire on the kit.

Step 6:

Strip about an inch of the black cable. This is your ground - either wire it directly to your negative terminal on the battery or a bolt attached to your chassis.

I made a loop and wired mine to the seat bolt.

Step 7:

Plug the brake harness back in.

Turn the bike on and test it all out. The small LED on the kit should light up when you turn it on.

Tap the brake twice quickly to engage the opener.

Assuming everything is working correctly, now select a location near the gauges for the indicator LED. Thread the LED cable up to the front to the location.

Zip tie everything to the frame or other cabling. Be sure to keep cables away from excessive heat, such as the engine or the exhaust.

Step 8:

Test everything out again. Turn the bike on and check to make sure the LED lights up.

When you tap the rear brake twice quickly, the LED will flash and turn green. The garage door should start to open then.

Wiring it to the headlight flashers is similar. Just unplug the wiring harness connected to your flasher control and follow the same procedure.

I would recommend cutting the wires to length for that application, as it's less convenient to hide the wiring behind the fairings.
  Send a message via AIM to  
Reply With Quote
GP Champ
R6speed's Avatar
Posts: 2,469
Join Date: February 10, 2007
Location: Virginia Beach VA
September 28, 2007, 04:46 PM

cool i will have to remember this

"Ready your breakfast and eat hearty, for tonight we dine in HELL"

  Send a message via AIM to Send a message via Yahoo to R6speed Send a message via AIM to R6speed  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com
All logos and trademarks in this site are property of their respective owner. The comments are property of their posters, all the rest 2002-2010 by DCSportbikes.net. DCSportbikes.net is owned by End of Time Studios, LLC.