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Need an accurate carb cleaning how-to.
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  (#1)
Don't ask me,I'm Canadian
 
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Need an accurate carb cleaning how-to. - September 18, 2012, 04:16 PM

I can search for carb cleaning how-to's all day,but there's always some comments which make me question them.Point me to a tutorial or video which is legit.


ALL MY HEROES ARE RUSSIAN...GO CAPS!

Well you see, Norm, itís like thisÖA herd of buffalo can only move as fast as the slowest buffalo. And when the herd is hunted, it is the slowest and weakest ones at the back that are killed first. This natural selection is good for the herd as a whole, because the general speed and health of the whole group keeps improving by the regular killing of the weakest members. In much the same way, the human brain can only operate as fast as the slowest brain cells. Now, as we know, excessive intake of alcohol kills brain cells. But naturally, it attacks the slowest and weakest brain cells first. In this way, regular consumption of beer eliminates the weaker brain cells, making the brain a faster and more efficient machine. And that, Norm, is why you always feel smarter after a few beers.-Cliff Claven

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September 18, 2012, 04:42 PM

Pull the top, pull the bottom, video process

unscrew the pilot and main jets

soak overnight in pine sol.

rinse with water next morning

Blow out all holes with compressed air

reassemble

That should work in most cases.


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September 18, 2012, 04:47 PM

Or take them completely apart clean them the correct way and ensure 100% job done right. Depending also how old you might need gaskets and o rings. Check youtube for how to vids.


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September 18, 2012, 05:08 PM

Ultrasonic cleaning and done lol......
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September 18, 2012, 06:25 PM

This is a little thing but easy to have issues with: consider using an impact driver (I use the kind you tap with a hammer) to get the screws off the bowl. Those things are easily mangled by a plain old phillips head screwdriver and they tend to be on there pretty good...
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September 18, 2012, 06:32 PM

If you have no idea what you are doing - have someone else do them.


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September 18, 2012, 07:27 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nudist View Post
If you have no idea what you are doing - have someone else do them.
True to an extent... Mechanics generally hate (and rightfully so) dealing with basket cases (a project that's been taken apart and is delivered in a box) so if you aren't willing to see it through then don't start.

As far as not knowing what you're doing... Well hell, even the best mechanics in the world didn't know what they were doing the first time they took a carb apart. Everyone has to start somewhere. Just document each step as you disassemble carefully. Be careful that you keep track of every small part and how it came apart and goes back together. Pictures as you go can be great. A manual for the carb is mighty handy. You'll need to find float height specs and such.


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September 18, 2012, 07:49 PM

I've successfully worked a few Keihin carburetors.

Since you didn't give a specific carburetor, I'll give a general response.

Be prepared with the right tools. For some annoying reason, these carbs have very soft screws. And they're a specific Japanese standard. You can get a US Philips #2 to work. But to get the correct fit, you should invest in a JIS Philips screwdriver. Even then, especially if it's an older carburetor, you will probably strip the screw head and have to drill it out, especially around the bowl. Just be extra careful where the shavings go when you do have to drill the screws out. Be sure to replace all of these damn screws with stainless steel or steel alloy. I got my replacement screws at Home Depot, so no need to special order them.

Also getting the slow/pilot jets out will require a modified or carb-specific flathead. You can make one or buy one. The slow jet is made of brass, so it too is easy to strip. If the screwdriver is too big, it won't fit down to the jet. If it's too small, it won't hold fully against the jet. You might even need to knock the pilot screw with a hammer or use some heat to get it loose.

Also don't go crazy. If you think the carbs are still synced relatively well, don't remove those screws. Same with the diaphragm. You don't want to make more work if you don't need to.

Lastly, carb cleaner will deteriorate the rubber and plastic. And know beforehand where the o-rings are, especially the small ones that go with the mixture screws. You can soak the o-rings and gaskets overnight in a pine-sol mixture, and the varnish will wash right off.

This link helped me out the most for mine. I've only worked on 1 and 2 cylinder carburetors. I don't think a 4 cylinder carb is going to be all that different.

Cleaning the carbs 1 - Ninja250Wiki
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September 18, 2012, 09:20 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by REDLEVEL View Post
Ultrasonic cleaning and done lol......
This +1 Chris knows his shit.
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September 19, 2012, 06:11 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by REDLEVEL View Post
Ultrasonic cleaning and done lol......
In pine-sol/water

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaesun View Post
I've successfully worked a few Keihin carburetors.

Since you didn't give a specific carburetor, I'll give a general response.

Be prepared with the right tools. For some annoying reason, these carbs have very soft screws. And they're a specific Japanese standard. You can get a US Philips #2 to work. But to get the correct fit, you should invest in a JIS Philips screwdriver. Even then, especially if it's an older carburetor, you will probably strip the screw head and have to drill it out, especially around the bowl. Just be extra careful where the shavings go when you do have to drill the screws out. Be sure to replace all of these damn screws with stainless steel or steel alloy. I got my replacement screws at Home Depot, so no need to special order them.

Also getting the slow/pilot jets out will require a modified or carb-specific flathead. You can make one or buy one. The slow jet is made of brass, so it too is easy to strip. If the screwdriver is too big, it won't fit down to the jet. If it's too small, it won't hold fully against the jet. You might even need to knock the pilot screw with a hammer or use some heat to get it loose.

Also don't go crazy. If you think the carbs are still synced relatively well, don't remove those screws. Same with the diaphragm. You don't want to make more work if you don't need to.

Lastly, carb cleaner will deteriorate the rubber and plastic. And know beforehand where the o-rings are, especially the small ones that go with the mixture screws. You can soak the o-rings and gaskets overnight in a pine-sol mixture, and the varnish will wash right off.

This link helped me out the most for mine. I've only worked on 1 and 2 cylinder carburetors. I don't think a 4 cylinder carb is going to be all that different.

Cleaning the carbs 1 - Ninja250Wiki
Use a impact driver to remove the screws

grind a 3" long flat head bit to the correct profile for the pilot in addition to not stripping the head it will allow to remove the pilot w/o pulling the carb.


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Last edited by jar944; September 19, 2012 at 06:19 AM..
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September 19, 2012, 07:26 AM

Its a good idea to replace the bowl screws with some allen heads... Itll make the next clean up easier and dont overtorque them.


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September 19, 2012, 07:58 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by windblown View Post
True to an extent... Mechanics generally hate (and rightfully so) dealing with basket cases (a project that's been taken apart and is delivered in a box) so if you aren't willing to see it through then don't start.

As far as not knowing what you're doing... Well hell, even the best mechanics in the world didn't know what they were doing the first time they took a carb apart. Everyone has to start somewhere. Just document each step as you disassemble carefully. Be careful that you keep track of every small part and how it came apart and goes back together. Pictures as you go can be great. A manual for the carb is mighty handy. You'll need to find float height specs and such.
The bad part is most people don't follow this and then end up having someone else try and repair it after. Im just saying, remove carbs, pay someone $100 bucks to do them for you and call it a day.


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September 21, 2012, 12:18 PM

Is there a shop in the area that has an ultrasonic machine?


ALL MY HEROES ARE RUSSIAN...GO CAPS!

Well you see, Norm, itís like thisÖA herd of buffalo can only move as fast as the slowest buffalo. And when the herd is hunted, it is the slowest and weakest ones at the back that are killed first. This natural selection is good for the herd as a whole, because the general speed and health of the whole group keeps improving by the regular killing of the weakest members. In much the same way, the human brain can only operate as fast as the slowest brain cells. Now, as we know, excessive intake of alcohol kills brain cells. But naturally, it attacks the slowest and weakest brain cells first. In this way, regular consumption of beer eliminates the weaker brain cells, making the brain a faster and more efficient machine. And that, Norm, is why you always feel smarter after a few beers.-Cliff Claven

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  (#15)
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September 21, 2012, 01:38 PM

I helped someone clean his YZF carbs a few months ago; and he said
"Wow, this is really easy... For some reason i thought this was going to be complicated"

Its all nuts and bolts; righty tight lefty loosey stuff... Pull the pieces out, soak/clean, put pieces back in; even setting your float height is easy to do (if you know the correct specs)

*Depending on engine mileage you may really benefit from replacing the Jets, Needles, and Seals. Needle Jets/Emulsions tubes tend to wear which creates a larger opening and causes your bike to run richer/rougher.


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