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Painting fairings and need advice
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That-boy-wonder
 
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Question Painting fairings and need advice - February 22, 2010, 12:02 AM

Okay, long story short I got the short end of the stick and now i need to paint my fairings, and i can honestly say that the $250-$350 folks are talking about are out of my budget if i want to get tires in the next few weeks.

I have stripped them off, and covered the stickers I do not want to paint over and took the others off. I am starting to sand by hand and can see that getting down to the bare plastic is something i cant fathom, even with ridiculous elbow grease. Do I have to sand it all the way to the bare plastic or just down enough? Also if its just down enough...how much is that? Lastly is there any advice anyone can give me, I am rattling it from the cans at color rite. I pray it comes out nice but if it dont then I am stuck with it and will suck it up cause its my project....any advice is great.


01 GSXR-750 - tracked by "udntno235"
07 GSXR-750 (New hotness!!)

RIP: Angie "A-Boogie" Johnson
12.15.82 - 8.2.10

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February 22, 2010, 07:24 AM

You don't need to sand all the way to the plastic. The point of sanding it is to get the paint to grip. If I were you (and I am not) I would remove ALL of the decals/stickers/graphics. If not you are setting yourself up to have it look like shit from the get-go. Remove all stickers, LIGHTLY wet sand with a 400 grit wet/dry sand paper. Clean the fairing with a 50/50 solution of mineral spirits and purified water. ALWAYS were rubber gloves or the oil from your hand will leave "fish-eyes" in the paint.

Paint, let dry, wet sand with 800 and paint again.

Good luck and God speed.
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That-boy-wonder
 
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February 22, 2010, 02:41 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidAir View Post
You don't need to sand all the way to the plastic. The point of sanding it is to get the paint to grip. If I were you (and I am not) I would remove ALL of the decals/stickers/graphics. If not you are setting yourself up to have it look like shit from the get-go. Remove all stickers, LIGHTLY wet sand with a 400 grit wet/dry sand paper. Clean the fairing with a 50/50 solution of mineral spirits and purified water. ALWAYS were rubber gloves or the oil from your hand will leave "fish-eyes" in the paint.

Paint, let dry, wet sand with 800 and paint again.

Good luck and God speed.
why do you say remove all stickers? I have sanded it pretty well up to this point...its only a few spots I will putty that is down to bare plastic to bring it back up to the right level and then prime and keep it moving...


01 GSXR-750 - tracked by "udntno235"
07 GSXR-750 (New hotness!!)

RIP: Angie "A-Boogie" Johnson
12.15.82 - 8.2.10

Metafor Enterprises, LLC
http://www.metafor.com
http://shop.metafor.com

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GOTTARIPANDRUNNOW
 
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February 22, 2010, 02:45 PM

Because you will see where the stickers are. Plus stickers on the fairing aren't clear coated over only the gas tank stickers are clear coated.


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February 22, 2010, 04:44 PM

He has a nice write up on page 2.

The Painted R6

Here's some pics of the other set of body work we did

EDIT: here's the real link to the other set

The Painted R6 Part Deuce


-Mark

2007 Yamaha RVI (sold, treat her nice Chris)

MARRC Cornerworker


Last edited by dv/dt; February 22, 2010 at 10:55 PM..
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GET SOME ! ! !
 
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February 22, 2010, 08:25 PM

here is my write up from when dv/dt and I did our race plastics (above links)....hope it helps, PM me with any questions you might have....

My painting process:

I bought a set of used plastics, they aren't hotbodies or sharkskinz quality, but they are lightweight and look pretty good.

There were no major cracks in it, however near the edge of the seat on the rear there were two smalls spider cracks about an inch long, I took some Bondo Glass and mixed it with the hardener and bondo'ed it up, very simple, if you have any small cracks, or minor repairs needed, I highly recommend this stuff, has fiberglass witihin the bondo and gets hard as a brick.

After the plastics were perfect as far as the cracks went, I sanded it with 150 grit sandpaper, the reason for the 150 grit was because it had previously already been painted (see pics), so I did a rough sanding, after this I cleaned with with acetone to get all of the chemicals off of the plastics.

Once the three sections were sanded with 150 grit, I then switched to 300 grit sandpaper to smooth it out even more. Once this was done, I cleaned it once again with acetone.

Now it was ready for primer, I just used gray home depot automotive primer, and put on a total of three coats (medium - heavy).

I let this dry a few days, once this was dry I then put it all on the bike, made sure it all still fit properly, then removed it from the bike.

After the dry fit I then wet sanded all of the plastics, with 600 grit sandpaper and a small bowl with warm water. after all the parts had been wet sanded I dried them off and cleaned it once again with acetone, now they were ready for actual paint.

Now I wanted some gray in my upper cowl, to match the silver from the tank design, so i taped this off before painting the white parts, so I used the blue masking tape to tape off the area I wanted to keep gray.

after masking off the upper cowl where I wanted my gray to show, I then painted the bottom half of the lower cowl and the middle of the upper cowl white, a total of three (medium) coats, after letting these dry about 10 hours, i then taped off the area that I wanted to keep white, so the bottom of the lower cowl, and the middle of the upper cowl (continuing the design from the tank to the cowl, see pics). I had about 10-15 minutes between each coat.

Once this had been done, it was now ready for the final coat of black. So I did a total of 3 coats (medium - heavy) in black, nice and even, and had about 10-15 minutes in between coats.

After letting everything dry approximately 4 hours, I took off the masking tape very carefully and inspected my work, if it needed touching up, I just used a small brush and sprayed the desired paint on it and lightly fixed the error.

After all was dry, I then took the clear coat and clear coated the entire set of plastics twice (again about 10-15 minutes between coats), then I finally let the plastics dry for about 2 days, after these two days I realized that the transition line from the white, to black, to gray were fairly high, rough, and disproportionate, so I decided to carefully wet sand the plastics (600 grit, with warm water) and then dry it with paper towels and water (NO ACETONE), once this was done, it was ready for the final clear coat.

I did 3 medium heavy coats of clear on the final product and let it air dry for about 3 days before mounting it on the bike.

Now this is just how I thought I could do it, this doesn't mean it will work for you, I was trying to be a perfectionist when it came to sanding, painting, etc, and it ended up looking alright. So take your time, and ask for help or advice if you need it,

So PM me with any questions, or just post up and I'm sure we can figure it out whatever the problem may be.

Also note that I did all of my work inside my basement, I taped off half of my mudroom and used it as a paint booth, I had plenty of fresh air circulating, and the temperature inside was about 68 F at all times.

The paint used was the duplicolor black, white, and clear coat, bought from advance autoparts for about $6 a can, really nice quality paint


TPM/Roger Lyle/MARRC/NESBA #911

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2008 RAW Off-Road Desert Racing 58a Rider
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That-boy-wonder
 
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February 22, 2010, 09:06 PM

preciate that Spyker....I am getting to work right now with these instructions....i only wish that I could 3 stage it to match the factory with paint from advanced/auto zone. I have to order my base and red from color rite so that it is the same as it was...


01 GSXR-750 - tracked by "udntno235"
07 GSXR-750 (New hotness!!)

RIP: Angie "A-Boogie" Johnson
12.15.82 - 8.2.10

Metafor Enterprises, LLC
http://www.metafor.com
http://shop.metafor.com

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GET SOME ! ! !
 
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February 22, 2010, 09:25 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by datboii1der View Post
preciate that Spyker....I am getting to work right now with these instructions....i only wish that I could 3 stage it to match the factory with paint from advanced/auto zone. I have to order my base and red from color rite so that it is the same as it was...
Unless you use a gun, a proper booth, and some quality paint, you won't get an identical match, but using the cans from advance auto you'll get a nice result....my $0.02, good luck


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That-boy-wonder
 
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March 14, 2010, 11:25 PM

made major progress....primed her last night...painted her tonight...once she dries we will see how good/bad it is!!!!!!!
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_0125.jpg (492.3 KB, 42 views)


01 GSXR-750 - tracked by "udntno235"
07 GSXR-750 (New hotness!!)

RIP: Angie "A-Boogie" Johnson
12.15.82 - 8.2.10

Metafor Enterprises, LLC
http://www.metafor.com
http://shop.metafor.com

-"I'll cut you too short to shit"-
-"Only God can control my destiny, so I'm rolling on and looking thru the next turn"-
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