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Rear wheel re installation help
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Rear wheel re installation help - September 30, 2013, 12:17 PM

The bike is a 2006 R6 and I removed my rear wheel for the first time this weekend and took it in for a new tire. After I re installed it and tightened it to torque specs it doesn't seem to spin nearly as free as it used to when i give it a good push with my hand.

I made sure I had all the spacers in correctly before putting it on so i don't think I'm missing any and I know it doesn't spin but I used some chain lube on the axle before putting it back in.

Any ideas what might be causing this? One thing I'm considering is I did have the wheel off and cush drive and sprocket separated from it for about a week before taking it in. Could the bearings have dried up some during that time? I didn't lube anything besides the axle, should I have done so?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.
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September 30, 2013, 12:27 PM

1. Location.

2. Pictures. Preferably of the bike now, then as you remove the wheel piece by piece.

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September 30, 2013, 12:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doyler View Post
The bike is a 2006 R6 and I removed my rear wheel for the first time this weekend and took it in for a new tire. After I re installed it and tightened it to torque specs it doesn't seem to spin nearly as free as it used to when i give it a good push with my hand.

I made sure I had all the spacers in correctly before putting it on so i don't think I'm missing any and I know it doesn't spin but I used some chain lube on the axle before putting it back in.

Any ideas what might be causing this? One thing I'm considering is I did have the wheel off and cush drive and sprocket separated from it for about a week before taking it in. Could the bearings have dried up some during that time? I didn't lube anything besides the axle, should I have done so?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.
Chain lube is sticky, use grease next time, though I wouldn't guess that's what's causing your issue.
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September 30, 2013, 12:36 PM

Make sure the rear caliper / bracket are seated correctly and that the disc is between the pads.


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September 30, 2013, 12:45 PM

Look from back to front along the chain to determine whether the rear sprocket is in line with the front. If not, you may have swapped the left and right spacers. You have also not gotten the sprocket carrier situated all the way down and properly. Did you change the chain adjustment at all? A chain that is too tight will restrict rotation of the rear wheel. Finally, inspect the rear brake caliper and carrier for proper positioning.

Take a photo of the rear wheel and swing arm from directly behind the bike and post it.


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September 30, 2013, 01:03 PM

I'll take some pictures tonight and get those up. I'll take one of the wheel from behind, one from the sprocket down the chain and then when I take it back off I'll take pictures of the steps showing how I put it back together.

I had a really hard time getting it back on and almost gave up, it just didn't seem to fit with the spacers. But then I noticed the chain adjusters were sticking out the smallest bit (maybe 1 mm) so once I made sure those were flush against the inside of the swingarm I was able to work the wheel up into place but it definitely wasn't a smooth process. The caliper is also in the grooves which hold it in place and the rotor is between the pads so all that seems correct but again this is my first time doing it so things more so appear to be correct to me rather than me actually knowing things are correct.

Also, what sort of grease/lube should I use? I know they don't spin but between the spacers there's a thick gooey substance and I think that did get dried out some. The types I looked at buying at autozone seemed much more of a liquid substance than the thick goo that was there.

Last edited by Doyler; September 30, 2013 at 01:06 PM..
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September 30, 2013, 01:20 PM

All you need is some all-purpose lithium grease or automotive grease. It's a great idea to put a thin film on the axle after cleaning it of any caked-on old grease or corrosion. A clean, lubed axle makes the whole process much easier next time.

Still, don't feel bad about having trouble. One night before a big ride I for the life of me could NOT get the rear wheel back on my 10r, and I had done the job many times prior. It's just one of those things sometimes.


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September 30, 2013, 01:26 PM

You could also have too much tension in the chain.


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September 30, 2013, 01:32 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeShirtDude View Post
All you need is some all-purpose lithium grease or automotive grease. It's a great idea to put a thin film on the axle after cleaning it of any caked-on old grease or corrosion. A clean, lubed axle makes the whole process much easier next time.
This.. after taking my dirt bike apart, I went to Advance Auto and bought a can of high temp grease. I put it on all bolt/axles basically anything I want to have not seize up. I'll probably strip the bike down every 4-6 months and re-apply. I know it has mad removing the wheels much easier by keeping them properly greased.


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September 30, 2013, 03:37 PM

This really sounds like Spacer (collars) or Brake Caliper alignment. I'm not completely familiar with the R6 setup; but are the spacers the same length on both sides? and can they be installed backwards so that they wouldn't be riding on the Bearings properly?

Double check the order of everything; **Also since the Cush Drive was seperated, make sure it is sitting flush.



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September 30, 2013, 04:46 PM

If your R6 is anything like mine, and your rear caliper has a hanger where the axle goes through it, take your wheel off and put it back on again. I had the same issue at the track, and the problem was apparently that the hanger wasn't lined up correctly in the fitting where it's supposed slide into. I think the one of the pads was rubbing against the rotor.


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September 30, 2013, 05:00 PM

Ah it's all coming back to me. Putting these rear wheels back on this particular bike is a PITA!


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September 30, 2013, 05:18 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by djkouza View Post
This.. after taking my dirt bike apart, I went to Advance Auto and bought a can of high temp grease. I put it on all bolt/axles basically anything I want to have not seize up. I'll probably strip the bike down every 4-6 months and re-apply. I know it has mad removing the wheels much easier by keeping them properly greased.
Yep and I grease most rubber pieces as I reinstall them also to keep them from drying out. I don't know if it works or not but it makes me feel like I'm doing something.


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Im not really fast enough to notice a difference between tires. I buy the kind thats black and made out of rubber.
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  (#14)
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October 1, 2013, 08:29 AM

Took it off last night and lubed the axle, spacers, and most everything I could with some lithium based grease. Put it back on and made sure the rotor isn't touching the pads. It spins fine before I tighten the axle nut but once I do it's about the same as it was beforehand. The chain adjusters are the exact same length on each side and there's plenty of slack in the chain.

Here's a video of the spin after i re installed it. It seems like it should be spinning more freely than this to me.

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October 1, 2013, 08:36 AM

If all spacers are in and lined up the wheel spin looks normal to me.


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